Tempted: pull and sell stock NAV, mold in 7" Pioneer without NAV and use my phone

[RAAMaudio]

In order to get the sound quality I want I will have to pull the HU and see if I can find a better source to feed the processor I bought for this car or just swap it out.


I have been looking for the schematics without any luck so finding the signal is a bit harder to to but at least if it has a usable one before the output stage, it would be like a preamp signal, low level and possibly high enough voltage to drive the amps well.


The newest Pioneer DD none NAV is very affordable and has pretty dang good SQ and I might be able to skip the processor and just feed the RCA outs to the amp, less weight, less cost, less to wire up.

I might have a stock Nav system for sale soon if so.

 

[ryst]

will the car function without the infotainment system in place?

It seems to control a lot of stuff... like will climate control work?

 

[MKVIIST]

will the car function without the infotainment system in place?

It seems to control a lot of stuff... like will climate control work?

This is why I left my infotainment untouched. I think it's too integrated into the car to mess around with.

 

[RAAMaudio]

There are interface units that use the data bus, etc....probably going to work but I would test it before selling the stock NAV, thanks

Also the car has manual HVAC controls below the radio controls.

I could just unplug the HU and see what happens as a starting point but I will call my buddy that owns a car audio shop and find out what this will take.

 

[antarctica24]

Yo

There are interface units that use the data bus, etc....probably going to work but I would test it before selling the stock NAV, thanks

Also the car has manual HVAC controls below the radio controls.

I could just unplug the HU and see what happens as a starting point but I will call my buddy that owns a car audio shop and find out what this will take.

RAMM,

Have you figured this out?

I was going to scratch the My touch thing in lieu of the Pioneer Stage 4 setup, then to the PRS8 and then to amps. Done. But as I am thinking about this, I have a shop here that has a Focus ST that came out of the factory amp and got the EQ settings back to flat, then used a Masconi 6to8 to retune. I am going to listen to it tomorrow with one of my judging disc. I would expect there to be some system hiss.

The other option if scared of removing the head, was to get the Metra dash kit, which I did, take the Sony CD player out leave the Mytouch everything else, and just put in a single din radio, this is what I was going to do with the stage 4. I really just do not want to go through all of the BS to put a double din only to buy something that sucks. Only the Excelon Kenwood top end DD unit is worth using. Everything else is junk. I want to be able to interface a tablet with windows so that I can use It for work, and have access to unlimited 16 bit files on hard drives connected through USB interfaces to the tablet. I would just use JRiver to manage the audio files. The stage 4 was nice because it has the AKM DAC, and aux input with Bluetooth phone and audio. The bad part here is you lose the controls on the steering wheel.

So, to keep it simple I am back to Factory My Touch and PS8 or Masconi 6to8, both have aux input but Masconi piece has a module for igh End Bluetooth audio and a module for Digital input. so there is the option for multiple sources, and volume could still be controlled from steering wheel, Bluetooth would still work, and to switch sources I would only have to hit a button on the Masconi piece.

I got a 6Plus, and it is not working with the car, I would assume this will be fixed shortly.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I very much appreciate all you are doing on this, way ahead of me....I have simply been swamped with getting the rest of the car done, my trailer, truck, house, etc.....just no time for audio but did order the the new Parts Express mids that look very promising, Arc BL tweets, Arc 12 sub. I was going to use the Arc 10 but the 12 is only a few lbs more and my enclosure will be very light. I have the BL 12 for the truck and in the trailer, I guess I could of gone with the BL10, I might reconsider it, will look at the specs.

My buddy tells the Pioneer 4000 NEX sounds pretty good, have you heard it? I could just use it or the line outs to the processor I have or possibly dig in before the line outs.....

He said he has installed a couple of them and was pretty impressed and he does not what good systems are supposed to sound like(unlike most shop owners that are clueless or at least the customers are

----------------

I am so behind the times, I probably should not bother with a player and go all digital or at least SSD, etc.......I have so many things I am into and an incredible wife and doggies to spend time with which I love doing....I wish I did not have to sleep as have more fun awake doing stuff

----------------

I really do not need a world class comp system, just really good, and to most I could use the stock HU into a processor and blow them away but you and I know the really good stuff can be so incredible there is no comparison.

----------------

What would be the ultimate solution that is easy to use, looks nice, does all the things we need to do these days and not cost a fortune but not obviously cheap? Once I sell my house I might be willing to pay to have a couple made for my needs and I seldom pay anybody to do anything.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I thought I had an interface tracked down yesterday but to be sure I called and talked to a tech and still not available, I called another company as well, so far......nothing they can say is even in the works.

So, back to using a processor but I wanted to keep it really simple and low cost, low weight.....I just have the cheap little PP 88R....but not hearing it works so great......no time to mess with that part of the car other than gathering parts.

I might still pull the HU and see if I can figure out the output stage and bypass it before a processor but doubt it, would be cool if it had a DAC processor section with low level analog out I could tap into.

I am going to take a look at the Masconi 6to8, not sure if I can get one wholesale anywhere but I can get the Arc PS8, I had one, maybe should of kept it but seems the Masconi migh offer enough added inputs to be a better choice.

I did get a great price on the 2015 Pioneer AVH-X4700BS I will use in my truck, if not good enough SQ I will use a processor with it as well. $339 shipped, not a bad price

------------------------------

I actually bought two when I thought I had an interface worked out, just cancelled the interface and second HU....

------------------------------

I also now have the new Parts Express, Dayton Esoteric mids on hand, beautiful design, low weight, I bet they sound dang fine

 

[antarctica24]

Update

I thought I had an interface tracked down yesterday but to be sure I called and talked to a tech and still not available, I called another company as well, so far......nothing they can say is even in the works.

So, back to using a processor but I wanted to keep it really simple and low cost, low weight.....I just have the cheap little PP 88R....but not hearing it works so great......no time to mess with that part of the car other than gathering parts.

I might still pull the HU and see if I can figure out the output stage and bypass it before a processor but doubt it, would be cool if it had a DAC processor section with low level analog out I could tap into.

I am going to take a look at the Masconi 6to8, not sure if I can get one wholesale anywhere but I can get the Arc PS8, I had one, maybe should of kept it but seems the Masconi migh offer enough added inputs to be a better choice.

I did get a great price on the 2015 Pioneer AVH-X4700BS I will use in my truck, if not good enough SQ I will use a processor with it as well. $339 shipped, not a bad price

------------------------------

I actually bought two when I thought I had an interface worked out, just cancelled the interface and second HU....

------------------------------

I also now have the new Parts Express, Dayton Esoteric mids on hand, beautiful design, low weight, I bet they sound dang fine

Ok, I took a listen to the Focus with the Mosconi piece. Nice but there is some system noise, and knowing me and listening to you, it probably is more than you or I would care for. Volume to overtake the system noise, but I am not interested in listening to a system loud all the time just to overcome system noise. While most people would probably be ok with it, as he is, and the system is impressive for what it is, it lacks high definition and head room.

So, I have purchased the Pioneer 80 PRS. It is the equivalent of the stage 4 stuff except it has the Burr Brown dacs (Better in my opinion). It does not have the 31 band but a 16 band and a 3 way crossover not 4 way. However, I am on going to take a leap and use the Behringer EQ and 2 Behringer x-overs. I will have to install a sine wave converter to keep the noise out of the system but I think that would be better than trying to convert the behringer pieces to 12 volts. I have done some additional research on the lithium batteries. This is a very expensive endeavor. $1900 for the one I looked at to accommodate amp draw with 100 amps of alternator charging and being able to run the car. I have the means but don't know if I have the will. I have to overcome the price versus perception of what you get. Ill keep you posted. If you have alternatives please share. The 80PRS will be used as a pre-amp and the behringer pieces used for processing. While weight is very important, I will not sacrifice sound quality, completely different premise. Performance can be accommodated by pumaspeed engine upgrade and custom intake tube inter-cooler (to be divulged later).

I appreciate your endeavors to build a box to save weight as that appears to have been your overall goal all along (just reading through your build), Sub box design Is very important to me as I am sure it is to you. while you chose subs that are light weight and can build a light enclosure to accommodate which in my opinion was very smart and others interested in keeping weight down should listen to your example. I went with (2) JL W10's. I will get them in the spare tire well, and build the enclosure out of a MDF but will do so by routing out 3/4 inch layers at a time to build a sandwich to fit the well for the two enclosures, then using exhaust manifold pipes, build two extended enclosures out of a light weight material to accommodate the required extra air space. I have ordered a set of the BC coilovers but requested Joe to use springs in the rear to accommodate 100 extra lbs so not to mess with suspension geometry.


In the mean time for those not reaching their first 50,000 miles, I have crossed the 82,000 mile mark. The brakes on these car are complete disasters. First set went at 50,000, second set at 35,000. Pads are very scarce, my dealer has been without pads for over a year, and I believe have a design flaw where wear occurs 90% on the inside of the rotor. I have spoken with Ford directly about this and to no avail. I went ahead and purchased the Wilwood brakes from Joe at 2J Racing and went with the 20 pads. While not first set of Wilwoods, I find this kit to be exceptional and for the money worth it.

As soon as it thaws out here a little more, I will start a build page for those who are interested in following.

 

[TaylorFade]

[MENTION=929]antarctica24[/MENTION];

I am currently working with my battery sponsor on a lithium battery solution. Constant recharge rate of 200A and discharge of up to 500A continuous with 1,000A bursts. It will come in around 15lbs and should satisfy even the most current hungry systems.

I am currently running the 40Ah version in my sound competition car with an 11,500w amp on just that battery. One single 30lbs battery for over 11,000w. It's awesome.

I've also decided to keep the factory HU and at the moment am using a pair of PPi E.7 EQ's (one for each side L/R). Although I have an 8 channel DSP en route. It's just way too easy to keep the factory stuff and use an OEM integration friendly DSP.

 

[antarctica24]

Which Amp?

[MENTION=929]antarctica24[/MENTION];

I am currently working with my battery sponsor on a lithium battery solution. Constant recharge rate of 200A and discharge of up to 500A continuous with 1,000A bursts. It will come in around 15lbs and should satisfy even the most current hungry systems.

I am currently running the 40Ah version in my sound competition car with an 11,500w amp on just that battery. One single 30lbs battery for over 11,000w. It's awesome.

I've also decided to keep the factory HU and at the moment am using a pair of PPi E.7 EQ's (one for each side L/R). Although I have an 8 channel DSP en route. It's just way too easy to keep the factory stuff and use an OEM integration friendly DSP.

Are you running the Audison Amp, or something else? Also the specs you are giving from your battery sponsor, is that a battery you are looking for them to make, or one they have made and is in your possession?

Thanks

 

[RAAMaudio]

Sorry for the absence, a ton of stuff going on here and planning my next turbo upgrade....remodeling project is way behind as ran into some difficult issues......

I bought the PRS for my dually but decided I want a DD HU so going to get the 4700NEX as it now has a 3 way crossover and supposed to sound very good which I will determine if good enough when I can get one, should be released in March. If not quite what I want I will add in a processor of course.

Sounds like a very intense subwoofer project, I used to work on more serious builds but I have too many other interests to do so now so keep it as simple as I can. I am a bit surprised to see the JL W10 subs chosen as I have not been very impressed with much of anything JL has done in subs, speakers, etc...much of their gear priced quite high due to name recognition, etc...no offense meant, perhaps they are better now but I was not very impressed when I had some years ago, switched to ID and never looked back. I have also shipped quite a few Arc 10's (original version designed by Eric Stevens,I stopped using ID when he left his company, looking forward to the day he has his new line of gear!) as replacements and the buyers were very happy with the new subs.

I was involved in a project where we taking the the processors out of Behringers to put into tiny packages, I sent 3 processors out, never got anything back

I have a new set of BP20 pads with no use for them if interested in spares

I still need an Li battery but keep spending my toy funds more on power at the moment, new turbo, DP, IC, bumper, and different wheels soon as well as several other items to test.

I do not recall now the battery info we went over and hard to dig it up on the PM's so a reminder would be great if you will do so

I will have am 1100w class D amp, capable of more that rated but 300 will be on tweeters, 300 on mids, 500(650 closer to reality) on a single sub. I need a DD battery that can work for a bit of time on that amp but mostly will be running the engine when the system is on since I do not compete.

Very cool to see some hard core audiophile owners of this great car so others can learn what real audio is about, sure not going to learn much from the vast majority of audio shops!

Rick

 

[antarctica24]

Sorry for the absence, a ton of stuff going on here and planning my next turbo upgrade....remodeling project is way behind as ran into some difficult issues......

I bought the PRS for my dually but decided I want a DD HU so going to get the 4700NEX as it now has a 3 way crossover and supposed to sound very good which I will determine if good enough when I can get one, should be released in March. If not quite what I want I will add in a processor of course.

Sounds like a very intense subwoofer project, I used to work on more serious builds but I have too many other interests to do so now so keep it as simple as I can. I am a bit surprised to see the JL W10 subs chosen as I have not been very impressed with much of anything JL has done in subs, speakers, etc...much of their gear priced quite high due to name recognition, etc...no offense meant, perhaps they are better now but I was not very impressed when I had some years ago, switched to ID and never looked back. I have also shipped quite a few Arc 10's (original version designed by Eric Stevens,I stopped using ID when he left his company, looking forward to the day he has his new line of gear!) as replacements and the buyers were very happy with the new subs.

I was involved in a project where we taking the the processors out of Behringers to put into tiny packages, I sent 3 processors out, never got anything back

I have a new set of BP20 pads with no use for them if interested in spares

I still need an Li battery but keep spending my toy funds more on power at the moment, new turbo, DP, IC, bumper, and different wheels soon as well as several other items to test.

I do not recall now the battery info we went over and hard to dig it up on the PM's so a reminder would be great if you will do so

I will have am 1100w class D amp, capable of more that rated but 300 will be on tweeters, 300 on mids, 500(650 closer to reality) on a single sub. I need a DD battery that can work for a bit of time on that amp but mostly will be running the engine when the system is on since I do not compete.

Very cool to see some hard core audiophile owners of this great car so others can learn what real audio is about, sure not going to learn much from the vast majority of audio shops!

Rick

Rick,

No offense taken, I am of the same opinion on everything JL makes including subs. However, I may have sent you astray with the wrong part number. I am using 10W7AE-3. Don't try and tell me it wont fit or I will take a torch to the back of the car just to make it fit. , anyway, no I completely agree with you. I am not a fan of JL Audio. When I was trying to figure out which way to go, I did not want to make a bunch of changes to the power system, so Class D was important and I am a huge fan of 100 Watts on every driver, tweeter, mid, mid range. The HD900/5 ( I cringe just typing it), offered the best solution for power output, draw, and size. I didn't want more than 2 amps but really wanted 1 per side as that is how the crossovers will be setup. Each sub gets 500. God bless you on the power you are putting down, that is a lot. In every system I have ever built, these were my numbers save the one in Car Stereo Review, which had 700 per sub. I am of the opinion if I do not port the subs and keep the enclosure small enough, I can control the 10W7's. If not, I am certain I can find someone to purchase them .

Now that I have the brake problem out of the way, I am looking towards the suspension. The car is way too bouncy for my liking on concrete. I have turned to the same people I bought the brakes from which was 2J Racing. I am going to give the BC's a try and I had Joe order them with coverage for an extra 100lbs in the rear as I stated above. I am also looking at the engine but I am looking towards Pumaspeed. These people have been in these cars for years, and less than $5500 gets me 300hp. I really want a plug and play solution this time, I do not want to go inside the motor again. Last time I did that it cost me $25K. Why? Because I cant do anything piece meal. It is like a disease. I am certain you know what I mean.

The battery I looked at like I said they guy wanted $1900. If it would do everything I wanted and needed and still allow me to keep the factory charging system, I might take the leap.

I do a lot of night driving, and I am contemplating the HID projector conversion. Lightwerkz has quoted me $2000 for Quad HID (2 per side), LED bar, and amber turn signal. I have not balked yet, and it is a lot of money for headlights, but remember I am driving about 6000 miles a month, so it is not like I wont get my moneys worth. What are your thoughts here on the lights?

 

[TaylorFade]

Are you running the Audison Amp, or something else? Also the specs you are giving from your battery sponsor, is that a battery you are looking for them to make, or one they have made and is in your possession?

Thanks

My amp sponsor is Ampere Audio so I run all of their amps (and components and sub). Audison is lovely though. I've had a couple of their amps.

The 40Ah version is something I currently own and run daily. It's capable of 1,000A continuous discharge with 2,000A bursts and up to 400A of continuous recharge from the alternator. These specs and the lower nominal voltage are what separate it from the other lithiums on the market. Pictured here next to a G31 in my CRX.

That one is 7" x 7" x 17" and comes in around 30lbs.

The one I am getting made for the FiST is half of that one. Since they are custom and hand made, they can be configured into just about any size or shape (or color) you want. Including 96r size for a direct replacement. I am getting mine made flat and wide so it will fit nicely in the hatch area.

The best part is that it will be a fraction of the price and far outperform the Braille. It *should* come in ~ $500. Considering the weight savings and incredible performance increase... it's a bargain, IMO.

 

[antarctica24]

My amp sponsor is Ampere Audio so I run all of their amps (and components and sub). Audison is lovely though. I've had a couple of their amps.

The 40Ah version is something I currently own and run daily. It's capable of 1,000A continuous discharge with 2,000A bursts and up to 400A of continuous recharge from the alternator. These specs and the lower nominal voltage are what separate it from the other lithiums on the market. Pictured here next to a G31 in my CRX.

That one is 7" x 7" x 17" and comes in around 30lbs.

The one I am getting made for the FiST is half of that one. Since they are custom and hand made, they can be configured into just about any size or shape (or color) you want. Including 96r size for a direct replacement. I am getting mine made flat and wide so it will fit nicely in the hatch area.

The best part is that it will be a fraction of the price and far outperform the Braille. It *should* come in ~ $500. Considering the weight savings and incredible performance increase... it's a bargain, IMO.

Taylor,

any thoughts on complications from having the battery in the back running the long cable and problems with starting the car? Have you tried this as of yet. It is a problem I ran into on another car. Is this a one off for you because they are supporting you, or would they make any others? What kind of weight do you think you will end up with and are you sticking with the factory alternator, or did you upgrade it, and if so with what?

Thanks
Bryan

 

[TaylorFade]

I do not believe I will have any complications from the relocation. None that I can imagine anyway. As long as the power run is of sufficient size, there really shouldn't be any problems. I have not tried it in the FiST yet though. I will definitely share that info when I get it in the car.

I am getting the first one because of their support (and the fact that I test the prototype stuff), but it is a planned production item and I am driving it. The battery itself should come in ~ 15lbs.

The guy I use for my alternators is Ohio Generator. I've spoken with him about the FiST but he doesn't seem to have any options for us at the moment. Our alternator is pretty decent though (as far as small cars go). And with this lithium battery support, I should have little trouble running up to 5,000w in a daily situation- not that I will have that much power, but it'll be available.