Turbo/DP/Manifold Locking Hardware Upgrade Options

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#15247
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#1
Hey guys,

Recently realized my boost levels were lower than usual, and I was hearing the telltale hiss from my engine bay while driving, so I had a suspicion than I had an exhaust leak up front. I’m running an S280 with a Whoosh DP, and replaced all of the factory manifold studs and nuts with brand new ones when I installed the turbo. It had been a while since I’d tightened everything up.

Under the car I found that one of my turbo to downpipe studs had backed itself out and was lost forever on a road somewhere, along with the nut. Assuming it was the obvious culprit, I replaced this with some nice titanium hardware but the pesky hiss persisted. So I checked the nuts/studs at the manifold to head and the manifold to turbo flange. Found all 4 lateral-most nuts on the head-manifold studs were a bit loose, so I snugged em up.

Of the manifold to turbo flange studs, one was still fine, one was a bit loose, and one was VERY loose, on its way to joining its buddy on a highway shoulder. Snugged these up too, and lo and behold: no more hiss, boost levels back to normal, car sounding and feeling like it hasn’t in a while!

Which leads me to the obvious question…how do I prevent this happening again? I don’t want to keep slowly losing power and dealing with loose hardware that I have to address once every few months. Obviously using loctite on exhaust hardware is insanity, but given the seeming tendency of some of these studs/nuts to vibrate loose, it almost seems plausible.

What are yall doing for your own cars? Locking hardware kits? Tips/tricks?
 


Member ID
#17189
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#2
Same thing happened to me with the s280 install.

Saw a video where you blow into the exhaust pipe with a shop-vac and listen for hissing. Found it! It was a huge hiss!! The manifold to turbo was barely hanging on! Turbo to downpipe was a little loose too.
See the screenshots and get these.

Also get 'prevailing torque lock nuts', making sure it's all metal, not with the nylon.

I replaced the 6 studs using the ceramic locker when installing the studs and on the nuts. The ceramic lock says to heat the joined components and I used propane torch. And you don't have to get crazy hot on it.

I think the key was really the lock nuts as they're designed not to back out in a vibration environment.
 


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