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Turbo Technics S280

wetwea33

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What year is your car? I’ve heard that 2014-2015 cars have had head gasket issues with or without turbo upgrades... but seems any car could have issues with a turbo pumping air in at 35 psi. Since I’ll likely be sticking to a more conservative pump gas tune, 270-280 whp shouldn’t be too hard on the car. I’m currently sitting at 67k miles and haven’t had many issues other than the terrible stock radiator. I’m sure the issue was exacerbated by my massive DHM IC blocking airflow, but 110-115F summer Vegas temps probably didn’t help either.

The car has never been beat on, but I replaced the radiator literally as soon as the Mountune one was released. I never even go WOT until coolant is up to 185 degrees and oil temps show at least 170 degrees.
It's a 2017 w/ 30k miles. Bought it new. Has been tune since 5k. Hybrid\aux from 13k to 23k then s280/aux till 30k.

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jayrod1980

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WHY I am very doubtful of all of the HUGE, FULLY radiator blocking intercoolers out there (even with 'the best' aftermarket radiator in the universe installed), and would only ever go to one if the tuner for a given setup claimed that it was an 'absolute necessity' for him to even get the tune correct.
I'd rather lose a few ponies to heat soak on repeated WOT pulls, than blow out a head gasket and warp a head. [wink]

And I am not even in a ridiculously hot area.
I’m sure it was a factor, as was my tune pushing the stick snail to 26-27 psi. However, with the Mountune radiator I NEVER go over 205 degrees and hang around 185 degrees, even in 110 degree heat. I drove a couple weeks ago from Las Vegas to San Diego... despite hitting 26.86psi at times and with extended climbs up mountains at 105F, my water temps never went above 195F. Oil got up to 225 at one point after 20+ minutes straight climbing in a boosted condition. Water temps are never and issue, and haven’t with the Mountune radiator, and the car has only ever had a DHM or Bravo Alpha radiator since being modified. I consider the radiator to be the best piece of equipment I’ve installed on the car. I’m currently running 75% water to 25% coolant with some water wetter. I’ve not changed the coolant in the 3+ years the radiator has been in the car and I’ve never gone below the “high” line in the reservoir either.
 


M-Sport fan

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I believe that jay is asking if the much increased cylinder pressures a big(ger) turbo upgrade produces require/justify stronger head studs/bolts. [dunno]
 


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M-Sport fan

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Oil got up to 225 at one point after 20+ minutes straight climbing in a boosted condition.
IF you are using a very good fully synthetic oil, I would not worry about oil temps until they went north of ~275*F.
IF they steadily, frequently reach that or above, and linger there, it is probably time to look into an air to oil, stand alone cooler.

In fact, you actually want the oil to get into that range you hit above at least some of the time in order to burn off all of the diluted fuel, and water in the sump. [wink]
 


jayrod1980

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Sorry, I’m dumb.. I meant studs. I looked in the forums and haven’t seen much of anyone advocating for ARP head studs on the fiesta. Probably overkill anyway if you aren’t going for gonzo boost. I mean our engines were meant to do 20 psi at least on a consistent basis right?
 


TyphoonFiST

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I have been told by a High HP owner if he rebuilds an engine again it would just be ARP head Bolts and Forged Rods/ pistons as the other jazz isn't really worth it.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Sorry, I’m dumb.. I meant studs. I looked in the forums and haven’t seen much of anyone advocating for ARP head studs on the fiesta. Probably overkill anyway if you aren’t going for gonzo boost. I mean our engines were meant to do 20 psi at least on a consistent basis right?
It cant hurt...I think it would be around $75 bones to do it as there are Qty-8. ...don't quote me on the price though.
 


Dpro

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It cant hurt...I think it would be around $75 bones to do it as there are Qty-8. ...don't quote me on the price though.
ARP head bolts are really overrated according to my friend who builds big block Ford Offshore powerboat engines. I personally will take his word because he is known for his engines and the numbers they put out and he does not use ARP anything lol.
 


TyphoonFiST

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ARP head bolts are really overrated according to my friend who builds big block Ford Offshore powerboat engines. I personally will take his word because he is known for his engines and the numbers they put out and he does not use ARP anything lol.
He was referring to Exhaust manifold bolts* Not Head bolts as he clarified later on in the post* YA DINGUS!
 


wetwea33

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I have been told by a High HP owner if he rebuilds an engine again it would just be ARP head Bolts and Forged Rods/ pistons as the other jazz isn't really worth it.
I wouldint gi through the hassle of building one of these engines without doing some type of sleeves or css. This motor has some of the thinnest cylinder walls I've ever seen and it's an open deck.
ARP head bolts are really overrated according to my friend who builds big block Ford Offshore powerboat engines. I personally will take his word because he is known for his engines and the numbers they put out and he does not use ARP anything lol.
Arp headstuds are definetly not overrated when it comes to boost. He's probably building na motors. They really help to keep the head from lifting with alot of boost.

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jayrod1980

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I’ve not heard of many people using up rated head studs when doing turbo upgrades. Since I’m going to starting out with only a pump gas tune, I’m thinking 24-25psi isn’t too bad on the stock motor. It’s obviously pushing less volume, but my stock snail will do 26.96-27psi all day (briefly!).
 


Dpro

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I’ve not heard of many people using up rated head studs when doing turbo upgrades. Since I’m going to starting out with only a pump gas tune, I’m thinking 24-25psi isn’t too bad on the stock motor. It’s obviously pushing less volume, but my stock snail will do 26.96-27psi all day (briefly!).
I honestly think with how hard wetwea33 pushed his its safe to say running up to around 28-29 pounds of boost would be safe . Remember he said he pushed his to 34 pounds ,. So if one could get in the neighborhood of a reliable 280 whp it would be good with an occasional squirt up to like 31lbs boost with aux.
 


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For the guys running straight 93, did you need an upgraded WGA? I’m moving from Michigan in a month where E is plentiful. I don’t see myself running anything but 91/93 for some time.


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Muldoon

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For the guys running straight 93, did you need an upgraded WGA? I’m moving from Michigan in a month where E is plentiful. I don’t see myself running anything but 91/93 for some time.


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The TT WGA was fine for 26 psi, which was as high as we went on 93. It seems like people are having varied results with this piece.
 


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