V_2's ST, the Sequel

[koozy]

Looks good, can you post pics of the hardware under the hood once it's finished and tidy?

 

[V_2]

Do you have the sellers page? Nvm found it.
Anyways lights look awesome

Thanks. Just to be sure you're looking in the same area, I got these...I think there is only one seller, though. They say TYC brand but I received DEPO brand in all their permaseal glory.

Looks good, can you post pics of the hardware under the hood once it's finished and tidy?

Will do. I can tell you right now that the passenger side ballast is mounted to the bottom of the headlight and the driver side ballast and harness relays are mounted on top of the engine compartment fuse/relay box, all using 3M molding tape. It's too crowded under the driver side headlight for me to mount the ballast underneath, unfortunately.

I'm planning on tapping the MAF fuse for my DRLs, as that should be getting power only when the ignition is switched ON or ACC.

 

[M-Sport fan]

How hot do the ballasts get? (I've never owned an HID system in my life. )

 

[V_2]

How hot do the ballasts get? (I've never owned an HID system in my life. )

They don't really get hot at all...not any hotter than they would get from sitting in the engine bay, at least.

 

[V_2]

So my fuse taps came in today and I was able to wire the DRLs. I ended up tapping engine bay fuse 23, which is for the cam sensor/o2 sensors. This circuit is pretty neat because it powers on for 3 seconds when the driver door first opens, is on in ACC/ON ignition position, and stays on for 3 seconds after ignition is turned off.

I tried taking a pic with my phone but it basically just looks like the headlights are on, haha.

Still waiting on the D2S igniter to come in before I can finally be done.

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[koozy]

pretty gutsy to tap into a critical component power source.

 

[V_2]

Perhaps, but there really are limited options in that box, unfortunately. The MAF circuit was my preference, but there wasn't room to tap there.

I'm running a 5A fuse to the DRLs, and they really don't draw much current, so all should be safe. Just past experience speaking...I am by no means an electrical engineer.

 

[V_2]

Got the replacement igniter from TRS today. Aside from cleaning up my wiring, I think everything is good to go.

 

[V_2]

Bath day!

 

[V_2]

Looks like I'm taking a trip to the dealer soon...

My AC didn't work driving home today. I noticed that the compressor turns on for a fraction of a second when the AC button is pushed from the control panel and then idle goes back down. No blown fuses and I swear I hear a light hiss around the low pressure schrader valve. Letting the car cool down before I confirm that. But man, it was 95 today on the road.

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[V_2]

Took the car into the dealership yesterday and got a call today that the AC compressor is failed. The replacement part won't be in till Monday, so no ST till then.

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[Nightcrew13]

Looks like I'm taking a trip to the dealer soon...

My AC didn't work driving home today. I noticed that the compressor turns on for a fraction of a second when the AC button is pushed from the control panel and then idle goes back down. No blown fuses and I swear I hear a light hiss around the low pressure schrader valve. Letting the car cool down before I confirm that. But man, it was 95 today on the road.

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Bummin

 

[V_2]

Picking the car up today. Looks like the A/C compressor was leaking.

Has anyone else had or head of an issue like this?

 

[V_2]

Well, picked the car up and the AC worked great!

...for about 20 minutes.

I popped the hood and same hissing was present at the low pressure line schrader valve, along with UV leak detector puked all over the coolant overflow tank.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AvjLDIP5MZDkjSCROVmhAN6jj5te

 

[V_2]

Still don't have my car. Dealer called me today and said it was ready to pick up. Well, the AC starts getting warm while they have the car queued for me at customer pick up...This is starting to get ridiculous. So far the AC compressor and low pressure side "schrader valve" were replaced.

I obviously don't have the car to look at, but I figure the whole low pressure line would need to be replaced? I didn't think the valve itself was replaceable.

Either way, the '17 fusion they put me in as a loaner is boooooooring and I want my FiST back.

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[V_2]

I finally got some time to review the invoice I received yesterday and it looks like they threw parts at the problem without listening to me...again. I told them the low pressure valve was leaking; they replaced the AC compressor and now the **HIGH** pressure line valve (1S7Z-19D701-A); even calling it the low pressure valve in the service notes.

Still haven't changed the low pressure line (C1BZ-19867-D), where the obvious noise is coming from. Thinking it's time to get corporate involved.

 

[Bizzareo]

I did some test fitting with 4tl-r projectors into the euro headlights. They fit pretty well with minimal modification.

I found a set of wood carving tools at home depot that are freaking awesome at getting permaseal headlights open. It took me 3 hours to do the first one and maybe an hour to do the second thanks to these little guys.

Are you having any issues with the pattern being incorrect for a LHD vehicle?

 

[V_2]

Are you having any issues with the pattern being incorrect for a LHD vehicle?

Nah, that was mainly the reason why I retrofitted different projectors. Everything else is identical between the LHD and RHD euro lights as far as I can tell.

 

[V_2]

Update on my A/C issues. The dealer replaced the low pressure line in July and a couple of weeks after that I noticed a nasty vibration/hum that was directly related to compressor engagement. It would go away when I pushed the A/C button to turn it off and immediately return when I turned the A/C back on. It started as an intermittent issue but eventually was always present. Took it to the dealer a few times, made note of it when I got my blend door actuator replaced, and they blew it off as exhaust noise. So whatever, I lived with it.

Fast forward to last week and I notice a small puddle of bright green fluid had leaked from the front of the car at the compressor side in my garage. Then I notice my windows fogging when I'm driving in the rain unless I run the max defrost setting. So I'm taking the car *back* to the dealer on the 26th to get the obvious leak and/or compressor failure addressed.

On the bright side, that annoying vibration is gone.

 

[V_2]

I noticed a small oil leak at the beginning of February and the first place I looked was the turbo drain.

My car had also fallen victim to the DHM drain line baffle crack.

Funny, though, it didn't lose much oil at all and I think it only leaked while the metal was cold. Maybe it hadn't opened up enough to cause any real issues yet.

The last day I drove it was 2/10. I had a pretty big surgery on 2/13 that has left me unable to work on the car for several weeks, so off to a shop last week it went.

They are fabbing a new drain line that hopefully lasts this time. I think DHM got a little too ambitious with their design.

Man, I miss my car! Driving in general, honestly.