V_2's ST, the Sequel

[M-Sport fan]

Was this ever a problem on the factory snail's drain line flex corrugations?

 

[V_2]

The factory line fits much better than this did, no singing and dancing required to get it lined up correctly, so less stress on parts. I haven't heard of any factory lines failing, at least.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The factory line fits much better than this did, no singing and dancing required to get it lined up correctly, so less stress on parts. I haven't heard of any factory lines failing, at least.

Thank you for that info.

 

[V_2]

I finally got my windows tinted today. What a difference a little film on the windows makes to a car's looks!

These 100F days have been rough without it.

 

[V_2]

Let's see how these indy 500's compare to the outgoing sport comp-2...

 

[TDavis]

Let's see how these indy 500's compare to the outgoing sport comp-2...

Interested to know your thoughts!

 

[V_2]

So far I'm really enjoying the indy 500's. I haven't been able to push them much in one afternokn but they are much quieter than the BFG and handle at least as well. Turn in feels a little more numb, but that could just be because discount tire filled them at 34 psi all around. I'll be adjusting that.

I had to relearn my TPMS because discount tire also forgot to do that. For anyone curious, because I didn't know how to do it either, you need to

-turn ignition on but do not start the car
-wait for sync to get to home screen (maybe? I did at least)
-press hazard button 6 times, the horn should chirp once and a sync alert should appear, "Train left front tire".
-deflate left front tire to ~25psi, until the horn chirps
-repeat previous step for right front, right rear, left rear tires. You can confirm each step by reading the sync alerts.
-a training complete sync alert will display after the 4th tire if the process was successful
-reinflate all tires to spec, no more annoying TPMS light.

 

[GAbOS]

So far I'm really enjoying the indy 500's. I haven't been able to push them much in one afternokn but they are much quieter than the BFG and handle at least as well. Turn in feels a little more numb, but that could just be because discount tire filled them at 34 psi all around. I'll be adjusting that.

I had to relearn my TPMS because discount tire also forgot to do that. For anyone curious, because I didn't know how to do it either, you need to

-turn ignition on but do not start the car
-wait for sync to get to home screen (maybe? I did at least)
-press hazard button 6 times, the horn should chirp once and a sync alert should appear, "Train left front tire".
-deflate left front tire to ~25psi, until the horn chirps
-repeat previous step for right front, right rear, left rear tires. You can confirm each step by reading the sync alerts.
-a training complete sync alert will display after the 4th tire if the process was successful
-reinflate all tires to spec, no more annoying TPMS light.

Awesome! I'll have to try this out. Someone pleaaysticky this info. [emoji6]

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

[V_2]

Every day I'm reminded that I bought an econobox Fiesta.

At least I still have 6k miles left on my warranty.

 

[V_2]

I went to the dealership to get the map light/sunroof switch assembly replaced at the end of August. The part had to be ordered, so the dealership offered to call me back once the part arrived. After about a month of leaving voicemails to my assigned service advisor I called the service department directly and found out he moved elsewhere in the company. I guess he didn't hand off his accounts to his replacement, or whatever. So I made an appointment for this morning to get the part replaced, as it had been sitting on the shelf for a few weeks. Well, the right part was ordered but the wrong part was in the box. Good deal...


On the bright side, the new service advisor I'm dealing with actually knows what a ST is, loves FiSTs, and is about to buy a RS. So we shot the shit for about 30 minutes while I was waiting.

 

[V_2]

I picked up one of those $10 USB borescopes for my phone to help me scout some locations where I can fabricate some front bumper supports to lift it up and out and get rid of the dreaded sag.

It's not half bad. I just got done installing the app and messed with the settings a bit. One pic is of a travel toothpaste box about 4 inches away, the other of my wedding ring about an inch away. Refresh rate is pretty good. It was advertised as being able to capture 720p but I can only get it to do 640x480...no big deal. It was only $10, after all.

I'm also considering selling my CP-E intake. I'm growing to like hearing the turbo noise the MAP intake provides. It also opens a lot of engine bay room that may be helpful one day.

 

[V_2]

Alright, so I have had my car to the dealership 3 times now to get the map light/sunroof control module replaced because they keep receiving the incorrect part from the warehouse. I think this time was the charm.

However, the advisor brought up the buzzing/grinding noise that showed up after I had the AC compressor replaced a while back. I am convinced the part is defective as the noise only occurs when the compressor is engaged and is very close in feeling to when the compressor went out in another vehicle of mine. I brought the car in a couple of times for this, but it was always shrugged off as being caused by aftermarket parts. The advisor offered to have the techs take a closer look and offered me a loaner until they figure something out. So I've been hooning around in a '18 escape since last Wednesday.

On a side note, I'd like to share my journey diagnosing an electrical problem in my '88 Ranger. The fuel pump randomly stopped priming, and the engine would not turn over. I traced through the fuel pump and EEC relays to discover only 2.5v coming out of the EEC relay when ignition was ON. Even though low and high side inputs were giving 12.5v and the ground was good. Figuring the EEC relay was bad, I replaced it, but symptoms were identical. Next step was to check all grounds from the ignition switch and EEC itself. Those were good, so I used a jumper wire to bypass the EEC relay and the truck would start right up. At this point I either have a defective new relay or the connector is bad and I'll be replacing the pigtail. But the old POS beast is close to living again!

Bonus pic from a few years back

 

[V_2]

Overdue update.

The grinding noise could never be diagnosed. I've really just forgotten about it since now that it's cooler outside the noise has stopped.

I think I have finally found a solution for my sagging front bumper! I bought a pair of 1" ring hangers to mount to my DHM crash bar and some 3/8 all thread rods to experiment with. Using a vice and MAPP torch, I bent a rod into a shape that would have plenty of clearance and thread through a hole I drilled into the bottom of the bumper.

I only had enough time to do the passenger side, but the improvement is even more apparent when looking at the driver side.

 

[V_2]

35K miles on the car,30K on the GT2560R, 21 degrees on a clear morning, everyone's still happy.

 

[V_2]

I'm making my quarterly pilgrimage to the dealer tomorrow morning for *yet another* AC issue...

You know the story: AC light turns off on its own, compressor doesn't switch on, windows fogging up in the rain, air coming out of the vents smells humid, oh yeah...and literally no charge in the refrigerant lines. I hooked up my manifold gauges to get a reading and low/high pressure sides both have 0 PSI.

I pressed opened the low pressure schrader valve with a small screwdriver and nothing escaped. I visually inspected all refrigerant lines and they all look good. My bet is the original theory I had about the compressor causing all the weird NVH - humming, grinding, vibrating steering wheel - after it was replaced once before is true and it finally crapped out, luckily 200 miles before my bumper to bumper ended (35,810 miles to be exact).

This will be my 4th visit for the same issue now.

 

[koozy]

Leak somewhere?

 

[V_2]

Leak somewhere?

Definitely...but not sure where exactly. The dealer put UV dye in the lines last time they recharged the system but I didn't see anything telltale with a black light. I also noticed the distinctive burning compressor odor coming out of my vents for about 10 minutes before this started again.

Funny thing is I replaced the condenser, evaporator and lines in my 30 year old Ranger a year ago that are still doing fine, and yet I'm having recurring issues with my 3 year old car. It's maddening, lol.

 

[V_2]

I was able to lift the car and get a better look at things.

It didn't take long to find my problem.

 

[koozy]

tube line snapped? wow

 

[V_2]

NVH is a killer. This is the second line that needs to be replaced in like a year. This ought to convince the dealer that the AC compressor is defective.