What is a good lightweight lug nut?

[M-Sport fan]

LINK?

https://www.acerracing.com/collections/titanium-lug-bolts/products/12x1-5-titanium-stud-nuts

 

[M-Sport fan]

I use these. They’re light, cover the threads on the studs and handle an impact wrench: http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx

Those, as well as many other higher quality alloy ones look great, but I just don't trust aluminum, nope, not even forged aluminum in that application.

 

[jeffreylyon]

I use these. They’re light, cover the threads on the studs and handle an impact wrench: http://949racing.com/forged-alloy-lugs-black-12x15.aspx

+1 - I bought two sets but I'm still on my first after 4 years of rattle-gun offs and ons.

 

[Woods247]

Those, as well as many other higher quality alloy ones look great, but I just don't trust aluminum, nope, not even forged aluminum in that application.

I’ve used them for years without issues. On/off all the time torqued to 100lbs, never more. Have you seen a 949 lug break?

 

[M-Sport fan]

I’ve used them for years without issues. On/off all the time torqued to 100lbs, never more. Have you seen a 949 lug break?

Maybe I will consider them, now that both you, and jeffreylyon wholeheartedly endorse them.

 

[AZSP33D]

To further discuss... A good aluminum alloy with rolled threads is certajnly stronger than the typical cheap steel lugnut, but two things are important. Aluminum alloys will fatigue faster resulting in issues after a lot of cycles, and also steel/aluminum being dissimilar metals subject to corrosive processes with the presence of an electrolyte, they need to have an anti seize and also inspected after every tire change and replaced when deteriorating.

 

[PunkST]

Just work out and you'll lose the same weight. Its a pointless spot to try and drop from.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^TRUE, but the titanium and high quality alloy ones just look so cool/GREAT!

 

[PunkST]

Oh no doubt they look good. Hopefully they stay looking good after a few on offs.

 

[ron@whoosh]

https://store.katechengines.com/titanium-lug-nut-12pt-12x15mm-p490.aspx

 

[Woods247]

To further discuss... A good aluminum alloy with rolled threads is certajnly stronger than the typical cheap steel lugnut, but two things are important. Aluminum alloys will fatigue faster resulting in issues after a lot of cycles, and also steel/aluminum being dissimilar metals subject to corrosive processes with the presence of an electrolyte, they need to have an anti seize and also inspected after every tire change and replaced when deteriorating.

Yeah I use a little anti seize and have extra sets in my track box just incase the Internet fear is warranted. FWIW, they don’t need to be re-torqued like my old Gorilla splined steel lugs did. I still check after every session but they’ve never come loose, which surprised me.

 

[M-Sport fan]

https://store.katechengines.com/titanium-lug-nut-12pt-12x15mm-p490.aspx

I had seen those as well (I used to have some of Katech's parts on my LS1 Z28), but was turned off by the 12 point thing, albeit a semi-effective theft deterrent.

 

[pixelzombie]

https://store.katechengines.com/titanium-lug-nut-12pt-12x15mm-p490.aspx

That seems like a low price for titanium. Are these legit?

 

[jeffreylyon]

To further discuss... A good aluminum alloy with rolled threads is certajnly stronger than the typical cheap steel lugnut, but two things are important. Aluminum alloys will fatigue faster resulting in issues after a lot of cycles, and also steel/aluminum being dissimilar metals subject to corrosive processes with the presence of an electrolyte, they need to have an anti seize and also inspected after every tire change and replaced when deteriorating.

This is a good point. I torque to 100# with a dab of anti-seize. No problems so far.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Just thought id put this out there.....Hmm...makes ya think just a wee bit.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ndeXiZUeM

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Hmm..Checkout the general Information also on permatex's website in the Tech Docs. for Tech Data sheet PDF underneath p#80078

Some more food for thought.....

https://www.permatex.com/products/l...s-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-2/

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yet another reason I was tending to favor titanium over aluminum alloy, since most of the tech people I've spoken to about this say that NO anti-seize, nor anything else is needed to be applied to steel wheel studs when using titanium lug nuts to prevent; galling, cold-welding, bonding, etc., despite the very dissimilar materials.

 

[AZSP33D]

^^^Yet another reason I was tending to favor titanium over aluminum alloy, since most of the tech people I've spoken to about this say that NO anti-seize, nor anything else is needed to be applied to steel wheel studs when using titanium lug nuts to prevent; galling, cold-welding, bonding, etc., despite the very dissimilar materials.

Being in aerospace and a jet engine mechanic for years, and later in life getting into the materials engineering aspects, and many super bikes with mostly Ti components, lots of 7075 and 6061 mostly alloy parts and hardware also, there’s a certain perspective that develops. I have a great appreciation of nice quality and smartly designed hardware. I’ve also seen galled and failed Titanium hardware due to people not respecting the properties of the metal, and understanding how and why parts fail. I use either anti seize, assembly grease, or loctite on just about every fastener I install. Have friends that have worked in the highest level of Motorsports, and most also do as well, but surprisingly not all. One of my favorite non-aviation resources is a book by Carroll Smith Engineer to Win, and I lend it out quite often helping others. You don’t HAVE to use any anti seize anywhere on the car, however you are mandated to in most places in a turbine engine... your experience should be improved by using a little bit in Titanium for sure, that’s based on my experience not the internet as some of you have implied. If you want to use the nice lightweight lugs, use anti seize and properly torque and true that this can be adjusted as you will yield more stretch with an anti seize, but it’s there to enhance the life of the nice hardware.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^OK, fair enough.

I was just going by what I was told by the actual manufacturers of those titanium lug nuts, but yes, of course they can, and will be biased, as sellers of a product.

BTW; given how the brakes, under hard use, can transfer heat to the hubs/wheel centers, and therefore the wheel studs, do you suggest copper anti-seize, or is the silver/aluminum grade stuff OK for this purpose, whether aluminum alloy lugs or titanium?

 

[AZSP33D]

^^OK, fair enough.

I was just going by what I was told by the actual manufacturers of those titanium lug nuts, but yes, of course they can, and will be biased, as sellers of a product.

BTW; given how the brakes, under hard use, can transfer heat to the hubs/wheel centers, and therefore the wheel studs, do you suggest copper anti-seize, or is the silver/aluminum grade stuff OK for this purpose, whether aluminum alloy lugs or titanium?

“Anti-seize” is designed for high temp, but I use it for low temp applications Either C5 (copper) or Nickel types when not in a dry assembly, but never inside wet/bearing cavity... works excellent for Titanium which is very susceptible... many Ti hardware manufacturers supply C5 with their hardware...... nickle types are tecnically preferred from a metallurgical standpoint... for lugs, light amount to the threads and also to the conical surface a light smear... for aluminum many other lubricants are better than none as long as it’s not in excess and doesn’t contaminate brake components, but I use anti-size on aluminum also... for OEM fasteners I use the lube recommended by the OEM in most cases... also for aluminum I would follow the lug nut spec (typically more thread engagement than steel lugs on extended studs) which is 85 ft/lb. (I use Ti lugnuts myself at 90 set on the wrench when I go around and check all the lugs after wheel change or periodic checks, but the aluminum lugs are lighter and 1/3 the cost and not as finicky, so that’s what I was recommending to the OP).

Edit -- I wouldn't necessarily use anti-seize on steel lug nuts steel studs, especially cad plated, but Ti and Aluminum I would definitely use it... and I almost always use top shelf hardware any chance I can. My 2008 F250 however has steel lugs, I used a little bit of AS with first wheel change, and it's been fine since, and never had to reapply. Lawyers prevent people from recommending, I think it's because it's easy to convince a jury that anti seize was so slippery that it caused wheels to loosen up. I don't think it's that slippery although it lacks a locking mechanism... so does the dry mount (actually spins on and off a lot easier when it's new and dry)... but if you manufacture lug nuts of any kind, you would be VERY inclined to direct people not to use it as there is a liability. If you insist on not using it for lug nuts, no problem, but I really think it's best to consider sticking with steel lugnuts.