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What's your Fiesta ST suspension plan?

What's your Fiesta ST suspension plan?

  • Leave it stock

    Votes: 73 25.2%
  • Lowering Springs

    Votes: 90 31.0%
  • Coil-Overs

    Votes: 125 43.1%
  • Air Suspension

    Votes: 2 0.7%

  • Total voters
    290

M-Sport fan

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One of my last cars was an Abarth and when I lowered it with Neuf springs and Koni Sports it simply transformed the car. I am looking at mountune springs and Koni sports..
Unless something has changed that I did not hear about, Koni ONLY makes the Sports for the back of the FiST. :(

IF they made their double adjustable Sports for the FRONT of the car (and the back, the Sports available for the rear are SINGLE adjustable-rebound only), I'd have a full set waiting to go on the car when I take delivery!

Unless someone comes out with something VERY well made, in at least independent compression and rebound adjustability (maybe even with remote reservoirs), I will stick with the stock suspension, damper/spring wise (bars, bushings, braces,etc. are open to change).

If nothing comes down the pike in a while, I will either 'settle' for the BCs (re-valved for higher spring rates than they now offer), or go with the KW V3s.
 
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Mountain House
I spoke with Koni and the Fiest ST application has a very low
Priority, meaning it may never happen (or it will be a year or more). I remember it took a couple years for Koni to come out with complete strut assemblies for the FRS. For the longest time they only had inserts. I have a hard time believing they would ignore an ST specific strut but his comment was; "people are using the non-st strut with a little modification". Yes, well ignoring the mass damper and zip tying the abs wire doesn't strike me as minimal.....but hey that's just me. I told him there was demand but who knows if they read forums. Everything Koni does seems to happen very slowly.

That being said, I would buy the Meister R Coilivers, their top of the line model is 2k and spec'd to your wishes. Even the 1k model is well reviewed. It's going to be a while so I will still check back with Koni next year....they may decide to move forward in time.
 

M-Sport fan

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Koni yellows for our application are the same as the non-ST version, as verified by Lee Grimes with Koni NA The only difference is that there's a removable rubber insulator on the base of the spring perch that needs to be removed on the yellows to be used with the ST. Also, the ST uses a couple removable harmonic dampers bolted to the struts, and the Konis have no provision to retain these, but it creates ZERO issue.

The needed part numbers are as follows:

(2) 8040-1419 (rears)
(1) 8741-1565L
(1) 8741-1565R
Are these the single, or double adjustables?

Did Lee give you any idea of the spring rate range the stock Koni valving can handle for these dampers?
(I remember speaking to him about details of the Sport doubles I had on my 4th gen Z28, sadly they have discontinued them for those cars.)

Also, does anyone make a coil over conversion kit for the fronts, like the Ground Control ones I had on the f body? [dunno]
 

RAAMaudio

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I went with BC's as it was the only viable option I was familiar with when I bought the car 2.5 years ago and had really good experience with them on my very modded and incredibling handling Forster XT.

My car was 2575lbs the last time weighed but I need to weigh it again as many additions and deletions, 50lbs less up front, 50 more in the rear now....etc....I had the 6/5k BC "race springs" and was very happy with them but the car felt like it could use a bit ore spring rate and I wanted linear rears instead of progressive.

I called BC and we worked out that it would likely be best to go to 8/7k Swift springs and I highly recommend them. We stayed with the same spring height so I had to lower the car back down to where I wanted it, longer springs are better so this worked out great.

The valving on the dampers was left the same, I run them in the middle of the range for the street which is a bit soft for hard core handling, I will run them some where above 75% for the track, maybe as high as 90+% once I get it dialed in.

I have a pretty wide track width due to 9" wide +35mm wheels which will help reduce body roll, no rear bar, stock front with upgraded bushings and adjustable end links and so far do not feel any more sway bars are needed nor chassis braces besides the $2 1" sq tubing one I made for the front using rivnuts to mount it. (I have a pretty good experience level in chassis bracing and have modded many cars up to building full race cages, stiffer is better as long as the rest of the car, wheels, tires, driver, are also upgraded accordingly)

-------------------

I would call Ground Control directly and see what they recommend as I have had superb results with them on several vehicles, customs setups, etc.
 

M-Sport fan

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^^^THANKS!

Being a newbie to these (and ALL modern sport compact platforms), I am NOT used to spring rates being expressed in K measurements, nor am I familiar with "Swift" springs, which seem to be the 'go to' ones for ANY coil over setup on these cars (I've only dealt with lb./in. rates, and Hyperco, Eibach, Afco, etc. from the domestic coil over market).

What makes the Swift springs a better choice than Hyperco, and the others, i.e.; are they the ONLY ones making a full range of coil over springs specifically for these cars as far as height, linear, and rates go??

IF BC would build a double/INDEPENDENTLY adjustable model for these cars, I would be all over them, and would give up on the other possible options, since YES, I am familiar with what the compression and rebound settings do, and just how they effect the handling, albeit was on a radically different drivetrain setup.

I fully trust your opinions/know how about the suspension for these cars, so, you still say that all of the various braces/reinforcements available are nothing more than 'dead weight', despite it being a front strut car?
The 4th gen f body is the same way, as the top guru for handling concerning those cars (multi-time national autocross champ, Sam Strano) claimed that the strut tower braces, sub frame connectors, etc. that everyone installed on those (and INSISTED did something they can actually "feel") were nothing but DEAD WEIGHT, but those are double a-arm front suspension cars, not strut.

Isn't there some trade off with moving the battery to the back, given the extra overall weight of the huge gauge wires needed to prevent current drop over the length needed to accomplish this (especially if using a lower output than stock, lightweight, 'racing' battery), and battery box, etc. (vs. just using the lightest battery one can find in the stock location)?
I understand one can then use even a larger, heavier, higher output than stock battery for 'ballast', IF that is the sole purpose of doing this mod. ;)
 
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Location
Louisville
I spoke with Koni and the Fiest ST application has a very low
Priority, meaning it may never happen (or it will be a year or more). I remember it took a couple years for Koni to come out with complete strut assemblies for the FRS. For the longest time they only had inserts. I have a hard time believing they would ignore an ST specific strut but his comment was; "people are using the non-st strut with a little modification". Yes, well ignoring the mass damper and zip tying the abs wire doesn't strike me as minimal.....but hey that's just me. I told him there was demand but who knows if they read forums. Everything Koni does seems to happen very slowly.

That being said, I would buy the Meister R Coilivers, their top of the line model is 2k and spec'd to your wishes. Even the 1k model is well reviewed. It's going to be a while so I will still check back with Koni next year....they may decide to move forward in time.
Koni headquarters is in Kentucky. I wonder if they need a test car:)
 

neeqness

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^^^THANKS!

Being a newbie to these (and ALL modern sport compact platforms), I am NOT used to spring rates being expressed in K measurements, nor am I familiar with "Swift" springs, which seem to be the 'go to' ones for ANY coil over setup on these cars (I've only dealt with lb./in. rates, and Hyperco, Eibach, Afco, etc. from the domestic coil over market).

What makes the Swift springs a better choice than Hyperco, and the others, i.e.; are they the ONLY ones making a full range of coil over springs specifically for these cars as far as height, linear, and rates go??

IF BC would build a double/INDEPENDENTLY adjustable model for these cars, I would be all over them, and would give up on the other possible options, since YES, I am familiar with what the compression and rebound settings do, and just how they effect the handling, albeit was on a radically different drivetrain setup.

I fully trust your opinions/know how about the suspension for these cars, so, you still say that all of the various braces/reinforcements available are nothing more than 'dead weight', despite it being a front strut car?
The 4th gen f body is the same way, as the top guru for handling concerning those cars (multi-time national autocross champ, Sam Strano) claimed that the strut tower braces, sub frame connectors, etc. that everyone installed on those (and INSISTED did something they can actually "feel") were nothing but DEAD WEIGHT, but those are double a-arm front suspension cars, not strut.

Isn't there some trade off with moving the battery to the back, given the extra overall weight of the huge gauge wires needed to prevent current drop over the length needed to accomplish this (especially if using a lower output than stock, lightweight, 'racing' battery), and battery box, etc. (vs. just using the lightest battery one can find in the stock location)?
I understand one can then use even a larger, heavier, higher output than stock battery for 'ballast', IF that is the sole purpose of doing this mod. ;)
In addressing the battery issue, my experience is a battery should be placed near to components that draw a lot of amps especially when over a short period of time (like your starter motor).

Reason being the distance is bound to cause a voltage drop sufficient to making it difficult for the battery to supply the power that such component needs to operate properly. This is why car batteries are nearly always located so close to the engine.

Sent using Tapatalk
 

Intuit

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I smell an advertisement post.

Leaving it stock.

The curbs are high and the snow can get deep here; can't afford any less ground clearance.

While I like the idea of ride-height adjustment for the Winter, the alignment and these issues sound like a deal-breakers...
https://mnsubaru.com/threads/coilovers-the-pros-and-cons.38450/#post-639392
...and the Wikipedia article seems to cooperate the durability issue.
 
Messages
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Location
Prattville
I guess I'll jump in and share my suspension plans. I've currently got a set of coilovers ordered; I just placed the order on Wednesday. I won't reveal which ones yet but will reveal in my build thread once they are installed. After that I also want to add a sway bar set and possibly some various chassis braces. I plan to start autocrossing the car after I get it paid down a ways...maybe this coming summer or fall? So that is the purpose of all the planned suspension mods.
 
Messages
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Location
Milwaukee
Can we add an option to the poll "autocross street class"?

Koni sport inserts(revalved), base Fiesta Front sway bar with adjustable endlinks and poly bushings.

Possibly add a rear bar and brace for HPDE and TT days....
 
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Location
Milwaukee
They allow the adjustable end links in Street classes?

You installed the rear Sports as well, correct?
Sports at all 4 corners, yes.

And as far as end links go, you're allowed to change 1 sway bar, and all associated hardware, so if you change the front bar, you can do those links, but the rear must remain stock. make sense?
 

M-Sport fan

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Sports at all 4 corners, yes.

And as far as end links go, you're allowed to change 1 sway bar, and all associated hardware, so if you change the front bar, you can do those links, but the rear must remain stock. make sense?
I knew about the change ONE bar rule, just was not sure that included aftermarket mounting points as well, or not (beyond poly cradle/k-member mount bushings). ;)
 
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I knew about the change ONE bar rule, just was not sure that included aftermarket mounting points as well, or not (beyond poly cradle/k-member mount bushings). ;)
Only thing you can touch is the bar itself and the mounting. If the mounting points are changed, no go. If it uses a bracket to modify the mounting points, that's ok. Perfect example is the popular front bars on the S2000's and the NC mx-5 miatas.

Just remember about the SCCA rulebook, if it doesn't say you can, then you can't. Some big changes coming down the pipe in some of the street touring classes. One potentially being open boost... :)
 
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Location
Peoria
Only thing you can touch is the bar itself and the mounting. If the mounting points are changed, no go. If it uses a bracket to modify the mounting points, that's ok. Perfect example is the popular front bars on the S2000's and the NC mx-5 miatas.

Just remember about the SCCA rulebook, if it doesn't say you can, then you can't. Some big changes coming down the pipe in some of the street touring classes. One potentially being open boost... :)
Just read your sig. I had '87 CSX #5 years back. My first autocrosser until someone stole my wheels and tires. She didn't survive her second owner, unfortunately. And it was 2000 before I autocrossed again. Hope she's running well!

Sorry for the off-topic, folks...
 
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Just read your sig. I had '87 CSX #5 years back. My first autocrosser until someone stole my wheels and tires. She didn't survive her second owner, unfortunately. And it was 2000 before I autocrossed again. Hope she's running well!

Sorry for the off-topic, folks...
Currently a work in progress. I traded a neon shell for it 2 years ago, and have been trying to get a stash of parts together to rebuild it. Have a set of konis for it, the A568 trans from a later model daytona, a factory forged bottom end from an 88 i'm rebuilding. need to source a larger turbo and fuel system, and hopefully it should run in spring.
Check out www.sdac.org and turbo-mopar.com if you're interested in these cars yet. ;)

Back on topic, Hoping to get my suspension on the car soon. But alas, there's still 3 months of "winter" here... :(
 

ron@whoosh

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Currently a work in progress. I traded a neon shell for it 2 years ago, and have been trying to get a stash of parts together to rebuild it. Have a set of konis for it, the A568 trans from a later model daytona, a factory forged bottom end from an 88 i'm rebuilding. need to source a larger turbo and fuel system, and hopefully it should run in spring.
Check out www.sdac.org and turbo-mopar.com if you're interested in these cars yet. ;)

Back on topic, Hoping to get my suspension on the car soon. But alas, there's still 3 months of "winter" here... :(
there are turbo Dodge bros in the house?

My first love affair with Turbo 4's

I was too a member of SDAC

way back in the day

Here I am a loooooooooooong time ago beating Cliff Sebring at Cecil County (was a SDAC event)
He was on Nitrous in his Rampage
I was in my 1986 TurboII swapped GLH all natural tuned with the OEM GLHS Logic Module
But I was running a fully built auto trans and know how to set up a car for the track[biggrin]
ok it might have had a Crane cam I was testing and some head work but I still had no nitrous and was running on Sunoco 110
ran a best of 12.71 @ 111mph that day
nobody could understand how the car was doing it.....lol
Breaking into the 12's was unreal back then with a 4 cylinder. Meaning 12.99
Going 12.8, then 12.7-------people were getting crazy including myself especially since it was the car's maiden voyage
This car also had a 4 page spread in Mopar Action magazine ;)

 


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