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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

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Thanks for the picture. WRC style, if i recall correctly a video I watched from M Sport, they said the vent area was not ideal, just practical...it may have just been to relieve underwood heat?
 


shouldbeasy

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Another picture from Ecomodder.
View attachment 34420
Note the low pressure zones, this is why I mentioned the front wheels being a good option to ventilate hot air.
There is a light blue section on the hood too, before the high pressure zone of the cowling that these vents are 'trying' to take advantage of.

Its also my understanding that the front lip on the hood vents (specifically the WRC spec ones) creates a kick up for the air and thus a low pressure zone immediately after (which is where the opening to the engine bay is). So, I'm hoping that the contoured shape of the CMComposite Hood Vents also achieves this effect.
 


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Ok, I see.
No doubt that Ford and M Sport are smarter than us, I'm sure they serve the purpose that they intended.
Sometimes we get stuck searching for the perfect method, when a perfectly functional method is right in front of us.
That being said, the beauty of a sealed system is reduced drag and less wasted hp trying to cool it, thus the search for a low pressure zone to optimize.
Also, I believe adding hot air to a low pressure zone will further reduce drag.
 


M-Sport fan

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Thanks for the picture. WRC style, if i recall correctly a video I watched from M Sport, they said the vent area was not ideal, just practical...it may have just been to relieve underwood heat?
Yes, I do not believe that they were going for any real aero/anti-lift/downforce at all with those, but purely heat extraction.

Given the very short front clip we have on these (and most of the other rides used for rallying), and the big intake ducting system they use on the WRC cars, the 'usual' huge, near the leading edge of the hood, reverse facing scoop type, aero vent is an impossibility for the WRC cars, and even ours. [:(]
 


TDavis

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@Woods247 what tire pressures you use for the track?

Also, LSD was AMAZING yesterday. I know I'm sounding like a broken record with everyone elses comments on an LSD but holy sht its great. I really don't care to get more power at this time. Car feels perfect, just need to dial in suspension and handling
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #671
@Woods247 what tire pressures you use for the track?

Also, LSD was AMAZING yesterday. I know I'm sounding like a broken record with everyone elses comments on an LSD but holy sht its great. I really don't care to get more power at this time. Car feels perfect, just need to dial in suspension and handling
Glad you love the LSD! It’s a necessity for what we do.

With Falkens (RT615K+ and RT660) I start cold at 26/27psi all around and usually end up around 30/31 hot, but adjust it throughout the day depending on the track. These tires have a little arrow on the edge to help identify how far the tires rolling over. I also use a pyrometer to make sure temps are even across the tires. I have no idea if any of these methods are correct but it seems to work well for me. I could never figure out how much pressure Federals like. They sucked no matter what.
 


TDavis

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Glad you love the LSD! It’s a necessity for what we do.

With Falkens (RT615K+ and RT660) I start cold at 26/27psi all around and usually end up around 30/31 hot, but adjust it throughout the day depending on the track. These tires have a little arrow on the edge to help identify how far the tires rolling over. I also use a pyrometer to make sure temps are even across the tires. I have no idea if any of these methods are correct but it seems to work well for me. I could never figure out how much pressure Federals like. They sucked no matter what.
Now that you mention it I think I have seen arrows on my Dunlops on the edge as well. I was running 30psi cold on Tuesday and it seemed off, idk how to explain it but didn't seem right.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Now that you mention it I think I have seen arrows on my Dunlops on the edge as well. I was running 30psi cold on Tuesday and it seemed off, idk how to explain it but didn't seem right.
Probably too much pressure but it really depends on the track. Road Atlanta has a lot of hard right hand turns so I typically have to run a couple of PSI more in the driver front tire to keep it from rolling over on that track. I’m usually 30-32 hot. Anything higher makes the car skate all over the place. Anything lower makes it plow and turn in sucks.
 


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Woods247

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One single “action” pic from 2 days of driving lol. I always forget to ask for pics nowadays. My boy Adrienne caught a bad ass shot though didn’t he?! Whatever he does to blur the background is cool.

1EFEA44C-D9B0-4ABE-A1E4-32BA68434A0C.jpeg
 


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One single “action” pic from 2 days of driving lol. I always forget to ask for pics nowadays. My boy Adrienne caught a bad ass shot though didn’t he?! Whatever he does to blur the background is cool.

View attachment 34476
last time I was at this corner I saw two ferrari challenge cars with brake rotors glowing spin eachother out, then the F1 car left on a wrecker. I think the fiesta looks better out there anyway
 


TDavis

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One single “action” pic from 2 days of driving lol. I always forget to ask for pics nowadays. My boy Adrienne caught a bad ass shot though didn’t he?! Whatever he does to blur the background is cool.

View attachment 34476
Same with my friend, overcast day made it look like poop thought. These are some old shots before the bbk
FB_IMG_1600620632249.jpg
FB_IMG_1600620640197.jpg
 


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I keep hearing from people that these are not the 'most sleek', or 'best looking cars out there', but as far as 4 door hatches go, they ARE about the best looking ones I've ever seen (especially yours in those pics above). [wink] [thumb]
 


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TDavis

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@Woods247 What bracing has made your car handle better? I know you don't want to go to wild with bracing with these cars as it can have adverse effects.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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@Woods247 What bracing has made your car handle better? I know you don't want to go to wild with bracing with these cars as it can have adverse effects.
Man that could be a looong discussion. I’ve had Pierce and TB Performance (twice now). The Pierce 6 point was most noticeable, but sat way too low. I had to remove it and reinstall TB Performance braces to create clearance for my splitter. Even then, I had to modify the TB traction bar to raise it up. With the amount of torque my car has, the Pierce 6 point was noticeably more rigid and managed torque steer a lot better than the TB traction and TB 4 point. There is a very good chance I’ll build a custom 6 point to regain that rigidity up front again. If I could still run the Pierce 6 point, I would. It’s awesome.

Recently, I added the Eibach sway bar kit front and rear. I like it but I think the cash should’ve gone towards a more tunable suspension setup. I love the 2J/BC/Swift multi-use setup I have now but I’d rather have MCS build me something custom that’s a bit more track oriented. If I had more appropriate suspension, I wouldn’t really need sway bars. With my current BC/Swift setup, I prefer the way the car handles WITH the sway bars. I have buddies who insist on disconnecting front sway bars for track use. It’s just driver preference.. On pavement, I can predict flat cars better than wobbly ones.

I also have a Piece torsion beam bar (and TB Performance). I’ve used both and I don’t think they do shit.. The Pierce has more contact points but I’ve tracked with and without it the same day and can’t tell a difference. Maybe they’re better suited for AutoX. Not sure.
 


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