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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #841
I’m looking into some Bridgemoto seats and a quick release, hope it’s not related to airbag stuff. I want to start tracking the Fiesta late this season or next season but I also want a headache free car. Is it track dependent like your fuel issue at AMP or is it everywhere?
So far it’s just been at AMP and Barber at their carousel exits. It happened before I removed the any of the interior so it’s likely unrelated to the seat or steering wheel swap.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #842
Was it ever determined as to what the crash sensor's g threshold trigger setting is set to in order for it to send a shut down signal to the ECM?

It is hard to imagine it would be set to as low a g force as you are pulling in those sweepers, even with as much grip as you are getting from the Falkens, aero, and suspension combined (but possibly it IS that low??).

Or is it only supposed to send that signal in a frontal full, immediate deceleration, like a head-on with another vehicle, or a brick wall?
I have not determined that yet but I agree. The G force is no where near what the car would experience in an accident. I will look into which sensor(s) trigger this thank you.
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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So I discovered something.. After the first false crash detection a buddy found that the negative battery terminal clamp was loose on the post even though the bolt was tightened all the way. We stuck a paper clip between the clamp and the negative battery post and went back out on track just to have the same “false crash detection” happen after two laps. After restarting the car, I immediately came into pits and trailered the car home.

Yesterday I went out to check all of the crash sensors and connections to the RCM. Before I did that, I decided to pop the hood and make sure the terminal was still tight. Sure enough, the paper clip slipped out during the first lap and the clamp was loosely connected to the post again. It was so loose I could simply slide it off with ease.

To permanently fix the issue, I went to Advanced and picked up a proper battery terminal shim. I cut it in 1/2 so the clamp would slide over at maximum stretch then tightened the shit out of it. It’s not moving now.. I also sanded the paint off the factory grounding point on the body just for good measure.

I’m really hopeful this was the issue and $3 is all I needed to spend to fix it. Fingers crossed.. Now I just need to scrounge up $500 to go back to AMP and track test it before the next long weekend event coming up lol.

Pics of the possible fix:

32D251F1-8BF4-4096-B39F-F05946274B30.jpeg B040E4DA-AF93-41E8-83CC-7F9915BF1493.jpeg
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #844
New wheels with the RT660s. These tires have a ton of grip but I still prefer the RT615K+. The RT660 is a hot lap tire and can’t handle a full session. I kept over driving them and they’re probably destroyed after just 3 events. Even though the RT615K+ has less grip, it’s consistent for 30min and lasts twice as long. Im ordering a set of 235/40/17 RT615K+ tonight. 99% chance I’m about to cut my fenders to make 235/40/17 tires fit this car.

Parking lot pic from earlier today:

3AA66247-44BA-4413-91DB-BCA14CDF0F69.jpeg
 


TyphoonFiST

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So I discovered something.. After the first false crash detection a buddy found that the negative battery terminal clamp was loose on the post even though the bolt was tightened all the way. We stuck a paper clip between the clamp and the negative battery post and went back out on track just to have the same “false crash detection” happen after two laps. After restarting the car, I immediately came into pits and trailered the car home.

Yesterday I went out to check all of the crash sensors and connections to the RCM. Before I did that, I decided to pop the hood and make sure the terminal was still tight. Sure enough, the paper clip slipped out during the first lap and the clamp was loosely connected to the post again. It was so loose I could simply slide it off with ease.

To permanently fix the issue, I went to Advanced and picked up a proper battery terminal shim. I cut it in 1/2 so the clamp would slide over at maximum stretch then tightened the shit out of it. It’s not moving now.. I also sanded the paint off the factory grounding point on the body just for good measure.

I’m really hopeful this was the issue and $3 is all I needed to spend to fix it. Fingers crossed.. Now I just need to scrounge up $500 to go back to AMP and track test it before the next long weekend event coming up lol.

Pics of the possible fix:

View attachment 40636 View attachment 40637
Time for a New battery * Is it still the Fomoco? and negative ground cable. It may have been over tightened and stretched so the cable may have issues or its not completely pushed down.The shim is temporary fix.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #848
Time for a New battery * Is it still the Fomoco? and negative ground cable. It may have been over tightened and stretched so the cable may have issues or its not completely pushed down.The shim is temporary fix.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
The battery is brand new. It’s a Die Hard AGM pig. The clamp was likely over tightened on the previous track battery I had. Do you suggest I just buy a new negative cable/clamp kit? I’ll search Ford parts and see if they sell it as a unit. F1777F25-17D6-46DB-A4E2-DAF148BD73AF.jpeg
 


TyphoonFiST

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The battery is brand new. It’s a Die Hard AGM pig. The clamp was likely over tightened on the previous track battery I had. Do you suggest I just buy a new negative cable/clamp kit? I’ll search Ford parts and see if they sell it as a unit. View attachment 40645
That makes sense....I'd hunt down the Negative cable.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
 


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Bummed and happy. At least it was retired due to age…

View attachment 40690
And you've got a Stilo to wear! Nice!

When I was asking racer friends about helmets to look at last fall, almost everyone said "Stilo" first. I'm kinda bummed the one I tried didn't fit as well as I hoped out of the box. I know there are pads I can change, but this was last October and I didn't want to spend a lot of time with a floor model. I like my Bell, but if I needed comms I'd have looked longer for something else.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
 


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Woods247

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Thread Starter #856
And you've got a Stilo to wear! Nice!

When I was asking racer friends about helmets to look at last fall, almost everyone said "Stilo" first. I'm kinda bummed the one I tried didn't fit as well as I hoped out of the box. I know there are pads I can change, but this was last October and I didn't want to spend a lot of time with a floor model. I like my Bell, but if I needed comms I'd have looked longer for something else.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
I ended up in a size larger than I expected due to my head sock. We changed the cheek pads as well and it’s really comfortable. I feel more protected in the Stilo. There’s a lot more padding. I look forward to trying the forced air vent system too, especially in the wet. I think it’s a tad heavier than my Bandit which kinda sucks but that’s likely due to the additional padding.
 


Jabbit

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I ended up in a size larger than I expected due to my head sock. We changed the cheek pads as well and it’s really comfortable. I feel more protected in the Stilo. There’s a lot more padding. I look forward to trying the forced air vent system too, especially in the wet. I think it’s a tad heavier than my Bandit which kinda sucks but that’s likely due to the additional padding.
Do you use a cool suit or anything like that?
 


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Woods247

Woods247

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Thread Starter #860
How do you like it? I've been looking into them. Do you refill during the day or does it last a while?
Mine lasts all day. The coolers are actually made by Engel and very high quality. I do carry extra ice packs in my truck just in case though. I’ve been thinking about going to ice packs completely.
 


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