What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?
I am hoping for this fall as the project is just gathering steam and my fab guy asked to be allowed to get something done before he starts on making the connecting parts for this lil beauty.. Then we tune it.. They asked to be left out of any conversation at this point for whatever reasons so I can really say who yet..
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http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-6258-turbo.html
Easy part is getting the Turbo hard part is waiting for the menifold and tuning solution ...
this car teaches patients forshore
Easy part is getting the Turbo hard part is waiting for the menifold and tuning solution ...
this car teaches patients forshore
Efr on a fist.
Not sure which spec efr
The springs will settle a bit but do check to ensure both sitting the same way on the perches and properly so.
Dial in a bit more camber up front and you can most likely cure the rubbing and make it handle a bit better at the same time.
Also if not done the toe in needs set when lowering the car, you do not need to get an alignment if you read up and use a measuring tape on the tread blocks, my simplest and oldest method and there are others. I have some toe plates that are quite cost effective and have used them on $100k+ race cars.
For camber and caster you can get a gauge or use a level and simple methods, research that as well. I have a very good digital unit but used simpler methods for decades and won a ton of events on street/track cars and full race cars.
For track front to rear you can use a cheap laser level or like I still do, strings and jack stands. Not adjustable on this car or so it seems, the rear axle mounts to the chassis can be moved a bit, this would be the hardest to do but should not be needed unless the car was in an accident of some sort to cause chassis or suspension damage. It is part of a full alignment which is a good idea anyway if you pay for one.
NOTE! Going to any old alignment shop will not get you a great job hardly ever unless they understand a performance car and set it where you tell them to very carefully which includes just putting the units onto your wheels properly aligned themselves. I learned this in the 70s and have done my own since but a few times was in a bind for time and paid to have one done and always had to redo it later as off, onetime in nearly zero high wend side of the road so I would not ruin my brand new $700 winter tires.
Dial in a bit more camber up front and you can most likely cure the rubbing and make it handle a bit better at the same time.
Also if not done the toe in needs set when lowering the car, you do not need to get an alignment if you read up and use a measuring tape on the tread blocks, my simplest and oldest method and there are others. I have some toe plates that are quite cost effective and have used them on $100k+ race cars.
For camber and caster you can get a gauge or use a level and simple methods, research that as well. I have a very good digital unit but used simpler methods for decades and won a ton of events on street/track cars and full race cars.
For track front to rear you can use a cheap laser level or like I still do, strings and jack stands. Not adjustable on this car or so it seems, the rear axle mounts to the chassis can be moved a bit, this would be the hardest to do but should not be needed unless the car was in an accident of some sort to cause chassis or suspension damage. It is part of a full alignment which is a good idea anyway if you pay for one.
NOTE! Going to any old alignment shop will not get you a great job hardly ever unless they understand a performance car and set it where you tell them to very carefully which includes just putting the units onto your wheels properly aligned themselves. I learned this in the 70s and have done my own since but a few times was in a bind for time and paid to have one done and always had to redo it later as off, onetime in nearly zero high wend side of the road so I would not ruin my brand new $700 winter tires.
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