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COOLERWORX Pro Short Shifter Installation Tips & Tricks + Linkage Redesign Discussion

Woods247

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So since 5 people have asked me so far:

I can make the upgraded linkage for you assembled for $300 (includes bearings and ball studs installed).

The linkage only is $275. Both options are going to be bare carbon steel, no paint.

I talked with the shop and if I can get three people interested at once, it will knock $50 off the price for each unit (linkage only or assembly).

So if a few people are interested we are talking $225 linkage only and $250 assembled.

I know it’s expensive but unfortunately the folks I work with are making this with a 4-axis mill and I don’t have time right now to get better pricing elsewhere to have it fabricated on a CNC.

This upgraded linkage should remove most of your fears about this failure. I did an analysis of the whole unit and the next weakest point based on the forces seen and motion of the unit is the ball stud on the physical shifter (that you move with your hand). Redesigning these threads would be a little more complicated and is not a priority right now.

If folks are interested let me know and I’ll keep track to see if we can get the better pricing.

Thanks!


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My buddy can help with CNC or Plasma. I PMd you.
 


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JDG

JDG

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Thread Starter #104
Why can't you just burn it out on a plasma table then just drill 3 holes?
Did you look at the photos of the linkage? Definitely need an end mill for some of the features.


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Did you look at the photos of the linkage? Definitely need an end mill for some of the features.


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Ack, I didn't see the spacing on the bearing. Nonetheless, I think I can 3D print a workable solution, it seems the studs being too small is the primary issue
 


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JDG

JDG

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Thread Starter #106
Ack, I didn't see the spacing on the bearing. Nonetheless, I think I can 3D print a workable solution, it seems the studs being too small is the primary issue
Man, idk if I would trust plastic.


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JDG

JDG

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Thread Starter #107
All PM’s replies to. Seems like @Woods247 @MagnetiseST are in for the $250 price if we can get one more person interested. If I know by the end of the weekend I should have them ready by Friday/Saturday time frame.

Otherwise, I’ll be trying to get the cost down another $50 further via a CNC shop in early May.
 


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Considering the $900 price tag for the unit itself, does anyone else find it insane that people are willing to pay another ~$300 on top of that to actually 'fix' it? I feel like the owners of the product shouldn't be manufacturing their own fixes, but pressuring Coolerworx to fix the problem universally.

If I buy a newly-built home and it turns out the roof is bad, I'm not breaking out my checkbook for a replacement - I'm calling the contractor who built it.
 


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JDG

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Considering the $900 price tag for the unit itself, does anyone else find it insane that people are willing to pay another ~$300 on top of that to actually 'fix' it? I feel like the owners of the product shouldn't be manufacturing their own fixes, but pressuring Coolerworx to fix the problem universally.

If I buy a newly-built home and it turns out the roof is bad, I'm not breaking out my checkbook for a replacement - I'm calling the contractor who built it.
My mentality has always been, if you want something done right, you do it yourself.

I did this on my own after I realized I wasn't willing to wait for a "fix" from Coolerworx. They have plenty of units going strong for awhile and I figured my failure was a one time thing. After another person's failed in the exact same place (the ball stud that sees the highest forces which are most repetitive for that linkage), a bunch of people asked what it would cost to do it again for them. I am doing this because people asked.

That contractor you speak of is going to do anything he can to blame the roof failure on you, or maybe patch it up just enough to keep you quiet and cross his/her fingers that it won't leak again. But if it were me, I wouldn't be worrying about that roof until I go ahead and fix it myself (or I would have just installed the roof myself from the get-go).

When you compare the $900 price tag of the Coolerworx unit (many people paid closer to $700-750) to the $1400 price tag of the CAE Ultra Shifter, you expect some compromises to be made on a shifter of this style. They are complex, well engineered for the most part, and extremely labor intensive to manufacture all the components and assemble.

I have considered making my own shifter of this style to get the design perfect but the cost to make it would probably be close to $2k. There are some economies of scale, but I wouldn't be surprised if Coolerworx makes a lot less money on each one than you think. $900 really isn't that much when you understand what goes into making each one. It's effectively a race car part and when you compare it to other race car parts that require this much time, engineering, and labor to manufacture, it's a bargain.

Edit: Also, I value my time at a pretty high rate. The time I would spend pressuring the manufacture to fix the issue would probably be quite high; 4 hours of my time sending emails and making phone calls about the problem with the manufacture and I could have fixed it myself for the same cost. Just food for thought.
 


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Man, idk if I would trust plastic.


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I could print in metal, it would just be expensive. As for plastic, I have access to two markforged printers that can weave continuous carbon fiber into strategic stress points
 


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I could print in metal, it would just be expensive. As for plastic, I have access to two markforged printers that can weave continuous carbon fiber into strategic stress points
That would be dope! Can you print threads in the carbon fiber?


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That would be dope! Can you print threads in the carbon fiber?


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That'll be the difficult part, what I can do is a heat-set insert. That isn't strong, so either I could have a captive nut inset with the arm or just make the threads a thru hole with a nut on the back of the ball stud, depending on the thread length it has
 


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JDG

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That'll be the difficult part, what I can do is a heat-set insert. That isn't strong, so either I could have a captive nut inset with the arm or just make the threads a thru hole with a nut on the back of the ball stud, depending on the thread length it has
Nut won't work, no clearance available on the opposite side of the linkage due to the base and housing.
 


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JDG

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In that case it'll have to be captive, like this View attachment 28623
What's an estimated cost to print something in carbon fiber that's 5" X 3" X 1"? Your material cost is the bulk of it if I send you an STL file right?

Edit: the captive nut could work, hence my question. Would probably want to do some FEA on carbon fiber though since it would be pretty thin - would be an interesting project for sure.
 


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What's an estimated cost to print something in carbon fiber that's 5" X 3" X 1"? Your material cost is the bulk of it if I send you an STL file right?

Edit: the captive nut could work, hence my question. Would probably want to do some FEA on carbon fiber though since it would be pretty thin - would be an interesting project for sure.
If you had an STL I could give you an exact price, we have software for that. As far as material, this is the manufacturer's datasheet
https://markforged.com/materials/carbon-fiber/
 


MagnetiseST

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I don't disagree with the sentiment that this part being so expensive, the solution should come from the manufacturer. However they are overseas, and a true "fix" would probably entail a redesign of the entire part. Essentially JDG did exactly that, reverse engineered and solved (Hopefully) the issue. I think the main issue lies in the adjustment of the rods from Coolerworx. I was looking at the joint yesterday to see the functionality of it and its obvious that the 1-2 gearchanges put the most stress on that particular stud. Cheap metal, over tightening, small manufacturing defects, or improperly adjusted linkages could all contribute to failure.

Ron @ whoosh has been extremely good with getting things fixed in the past, and has sent replacement parts out to everyone whos has broken that was bought through him. I just really don't want to deal with towing my car home, heck I even brough the factory shifter on my recent road trip just in case i needed to change it out.

So yes while I would like Coolerworx to "fix it", it seems its only a small amount have failed and none of them seem to be in their home market.
 


DangerMouse

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I have a question. The angle of the rod could be playing a factor in the stud breaking. What about extending the ball stud on the arm to get the rod at less of an angle?
 


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I have a question. The angle of the rod could be playing a factor in the stud breaking. What about extending the ball stud on the arm to get the rod at less of an angle?
Coolerworx solution right now is to actually increase the angle by removing the nut lol. The difference either way will be negligible to the forces. The issue is the stud diameter.


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DangerMouse

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Coolerworx solution right now is to actually increase the angle by removing the nut lol. The difference either way will be negligible to the forces. The issue is the stud diameter.
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That’s interesting.
 


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