Ford has updated the Engine Oil Dipstick / Engine Oil specs for 2017 ST!

[TDavis]

I have a 2017 and according to this thread I got the "easier to read" one. I don't see how its easier to read. It's hard to pull it out without having oil run down the sides of the indicator since the entire indicator rubs the dipstick tunnel. Any tips?

 

[FiST_Pounder]

I'm mulling the 5W30. I wanna say they use more viscosity improver to do this than 5W20. It used to be sold as STP - maybe still is. polyisobutylene I think. Anyway, keep this in mind in your research. The part here I'm really wondering is what's the impact on intake valve deposits? I'm wary that that aspect may end up trumping all other considerations on our engines. It's never easy...

As for the OP, my stick is OK, but the O-ring gives a poor seal.

 

[windnsea00]

]While at my local Ford Dealership I was peeking around at the 2017 ST they had and I pulled the engine dipstick. Turns out Ford has redesigned the engine oil dipstick for 2017. Owners of the 2014's had complained about the horrible dipstick so Ford updated that for 2015/2016 models however the engine dipstick illustrated in the owner's manual/supplement manual did not reflect the change.

Ford has updated the 2017 ST's dipstick to BM5Z-6750-C which came from the Escape Turbo 1.6L. This dipstick is much easier to read and only cost around $6.

I guess Ford has been listening to their customers and they have also updated the owner's manual too.

[/IMG]

And Ford is also recommending both 5W20 and 5W30 engine oil!

[/IMG]

The funny part is I just bought a 2017 and it says "Full-Synthetic" oil recommended as shown in the attached picture, however, the spec written next to it is: WSS-M2C945-A which is a synthetic blend. I presume the writers made a typo. Obviously full synthetic is even better but the minimum spec is still okay with blended synthetic, unless they messed up the spec and not the title.

 

[LargeRubberFist]

I have a 2017 and according to this thread I got the "easier to read" one. I don't see how its easier to read.

I agree, this plastic thing is stupid. Maybe it's better than whatever ford put in the earlier fiestas but it's still way harder to read than a traditional dipstick.

Flat metal with crosshatching is super easy to read and has been used for ages, why can't we just have a normal dipstick?

 

[Sekred]

Flat metal dipstick, part # BM5G 6750 BB .

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm mulling the 5W30. I wanna say they use more viscosity improver to do this than 5W20. It used to be sold as STP - maybe still is. polyisobutylene I think. Anyway, keep this in mind in your research. The part here I'm really wondering is what's the impact on intake valve deposits? I'm wary that that aspect may end up trumping all other considerations on our engines.

The 5W-30 should be no problem for you for the spring/summer oil change interval.

There are some oils on the market (mostly high-end, group 4/5 base stock, 'boutique oils') which use NO viscosity index improvers whatsoever (except for the most 'extreme' range viscosity spreads, like; 0W-40/5W-50/10W-60, etc.), as they get their multi-viscosity 'spread' from their superior base stocks, while still maintaining an above average viscosity index.

Any name brand modern oil out there (especially the ones labeled as "Synthetic") which DO use V.I. improvers now use high grade, SUPERIOR chemistry/composition VIIs which do NOT shear, and break down to form deposits like the ones of yesteryear (or at least NOT as radically/quickly as the ancient VIIs), and they are NOT using the same chemistry as in STP!

The only aspects of any oil which would effect modern DI/turbo power trains negatively (as far as intake valve deposits go) are it's actual volatility, and having a SKY HIGH PPM additive package, especially the ZDDP content, and/or SAPS (sulfated ash, phosphorus, and sulfur) and high calcium, magnesium, and/or boron detergent/dispersant/acid neutralizing packages.
(Which sadly, MANY of the 'boutique' oils like Red Line, Motul 300V, Millers NT, Torco SR-5, JGD, MPT 30K, etc. have as a matter of course, and why I am still a little reluctant to use them for the spring oil change, as much as I want to, and am tempted to try them.)

There should be NO PROBLEMS WHATSOEVER with ANY of this when using an 'on the shelf' synthetic at Wal Mart/Vato Zone/Advance/Peppies/etc. in 0W-20, 5W-20, or 5W-30 viscosities, since they have additive levels set by the API/SAE so as NOT to be deposit forming even if the oil gets past the rings, or valve seals, and into the combustion chamber.
Most also have much lower volatility rates than those even required by the latest, and most stringent tests to get those current API/SAE/ACEA specs.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The funny part is I just bought a 2017 and it says "Full-Synthetic" oil recommended as shown in the attached picture, however, the spec written next to it is: WSS-M2C945-A which is a synthetic blend. I presume the writers made a typo. Obviously full synthetic is even better but the minimum spec is still okay with blended synthetic, unless they messed up the spec and not the title.

The Ford WSS-M2C945-A spec is covered by BOTH Motorcraft Full Synthetic, AND Synthetic Blends, as well as most other MAJOR label branded, API approved, 'on the shelf' Synthetic, and Synthetic Blend 5W-20s, and some non-Motorcraft 5W-30s (?).

 

[TDavis]

Flat metal dipstick, part # BM5G 6750 BB .

View attachment 16570

The flat metal works? No variations in the indicator from the original dipstick so that it isn't reading a false high/low?

That part # isn't pulling anything up for me.

 

[Sekred]

The flat metal works? No variations in the indicator from the original dipstick so that it isn't reading a false high/low?

That part # isn't pulling anything up for me.

The part number is for a Australian ST, sometimes the numbers cross reference to US part numbers ok and sometimes they do not, I have experienced this problem before. Go to your Ford dealer and check how many dipsticks are available. This was a updated number for my 2013 ST. Works great and easier to read than the wire type dipstick with the nob on the end which is next to bloody useless when the oil is clean.

 

[Intuit]

Re oils and intake valves, it is also important to use a good air filter. Filters that claim to be "high flow" or whatever, MUST sacrifice filtering effectiveness -or- increase surface area. (and yes, marketing, absent of proof will claim anything) I had switched to one of these "better breathing" air filters in a prior car. Barely visible, I could see the fine white salt-dust (Winter) lining the black plastic intake behind the filter, and had to keep cleaning my MAF sensor (peak Summer)... until I went back to the traditional air filter.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Re oils and intake valves, it is also important to use a good air filter. Filters that claim to be "high flow" or whatever, MUST sacrifice filtering effectiveness -or- increase surface area. (and yes, marketing, absent of proof will claim anything) I had switched to one of these "better breathing" air filters in a prior car. Barely visible, I could see the fine white salt-dust (Winter) lining the black plastic intake behind the filter, and had to keep cleaning my MAF sensor (peak Summer)... until I went back to the traditional air filter.

Yes, between the air clouding salt dust in the winter, and the 'painting the car green' pollen in the late spring/summer, I will probably just stick with the thick OEM Motorcraft filter myself.

 

[koozy]

Reading oil level has been a breeze, glad to have made the swap.

 

[Zerodameaon]

My 15 still has the old style so it appears not all of them got the new plastic stick. Guess I might need to upgrade eventually.

 

[felopr]

when you get the dipstick, can you make sure is the same lenght as the one in the car?

 

[LILIKE16ST]

My 16 has the newer dipstick...it's build date was 1/16 so it's a fairly early in the year car. I've never had any issues with it. One thing oil related I have had issue with is the oil capacity of 4.2 (or is it 4.3?) Quarts that the manual states the car calls for...I put that amount in the first change and it overfilled...since I have been putting in 4 quarts with a filter change every change and it reads at the max line every time. I go 7-9k between changes usually using royal purple xpr oil and rp filter and even at the end of that interval my oil is always at max...car doesn't seem to be leaking, burning or otherwise losing any oil at this point and I do not have a catch can. I am currently at 43k and I am about to do my 7th oil change anytime now, and my 5th with the rp xpr (first one at 1300 miles and second one at 3300 miles were stock motorcraft oil...switched to rp xpr at 8k).

The funny thing is I just had to reset the oil change reminder light not long ago for the 4th time since I've had the car and here I am getting ready to do my 7th change...glad I don't go by their recommended interval lol. The xpr is very pricey but only needing 4 qt it isn't that bad...been using rp for over 10 years...they no longer put all the good additives in the normal rp oil but it does come in the higher end versions of the oil like the xpr. There might be better or equal oils for the money but I like my rp xpr...