Forscan and Crank Position Sensor

[rallyrabbit]

Hi all,

Reaching my wits end here. Does anyone by chance know what the Crank Position Sensor is called in Forscan; I found the Intake and Exhaust; but can sort out the crank.

 

[rallyrabbit]

To answer my own question, I am going to have to scope it, the Scope in ForScan won't show the Hall Sensor square waves :-/

 

[BlackFiSTBoom]

Misfire monitor neutral profile correction is what the procedure in forescan is called for the relearn

 

[BlackFiSTBoom]

Are you by chance having random p0339 codes even after replacing the sensor? Bc that's what I'm currently trying to sort. No other clear issues other than tone ring on the crank pulley, or bad wiring somewhere. Although my issues only occurs after 30+min of driving.

 

[Jords-st]

Are you by chance having random p0339 codes even after replacing the sensor? Bc that's what I'm currently trying to sort. No other clear issues other than tone ring on the crank pulley, or bad wiring somewhere. Although my issues only occurs after 30+min of driving.

i am having this problem, did you ever solve this?

 

[BlackFiSTBoom]

I ended up fixing it. But not 100% sure exactly what it was. I replaced my engine bay wiring harness. And also found that my manifold was loose. So I imagine the wiring in the back somewhere melted inside the insulator.

 

[Jords-st]

I ended up fixing it. But not 100% sure exactly what it was. I replaced my engine bay wiring harness. And also found that my manifold was loose. So I imagine the wiring in the back somewhere melted inside the insulator.

Thank you! I will check this first, you might have just saved me pulling the engine apart to re time it 🤣

 

[STRemy]

Thank you! I will check this first, you might have just saved me pulling the engine apart to re time it 🤣

no do not time the engine unless you have a crank cam correlation code. this code can not be set by incorrect timing. also your engine would probably have blow up if it slipped timing. This code is almost certainly a broken wire. can toss a sensor at it to easily eliminate that but my guess is a wire. it goes

 

[Jords-st]

no do not time the engine unless you have a crank cam correlation code. this code can not be set by incorrect timing. also your engine would probably have blow up if it slipped timing. This code is almost certainly a broken wire. can toss a sensor at it to easily eliminate that but my guess is a wire. it goes View attachment 66679 View attachment 66680 View attachment 66681 View attachment 66682 View attachment 66683

Funny your should say that... My engine did blow up last year! I recently replaced it and I also had to change the engine loom so it is very possible I didn't torque the exhaust manifold right or route the cables properly or even may have just bought a defective loom

 

[STRemy]

Funny your should say that... My engine did blow up last year! I recently replaced it and I also had to change the engine loom so it is very possible I didn't torque the exhaust manifold right or route the cables properly or even may have just bought a defective loom

The harness was probably fine..... check around the exhaust manifold to turbo connection. that area would blow right on the harness. d-e 3-4 on the harness picture is where i would start looking. personally i would ohm each of the 3 wires and see exactly what one is broke, then ring that wire with a wire sniffer to locate the break, sometimes the ringer works really well other times its a lost cause. but right on the back is where i would look.
yeah these are an interference engine and 2 teeth off is enoguth to make them clap when the actuator kicks on and advances the intake. if the phaser wasnt connected you can get away with like 8 teeth and not destroy it...... at least on the duratechs, havnt been inside a 1.6 eco yet but they are very close.