Headlights will not work with manual switch or on automatic light sensor mode

[M-Sport fan]

What should I look at first in regards to the headlights not working?

Are there fuses as well as a relay for just the low and high beam headlights?

The DRLs/parking lights work just fine, but the headlights will not respond even to the manual switch, let alone not work on the auto setting I usually leave it on.

It would be highly unlikely to almost impossible that BOTH low beam bulbs (PIAA H11 Night Techs) would go burn at THE SAME EXACT TIME, correct (without a surge/spike/whatever blowing them both out simultaneously)??

It was too dark to check anything when I got home, (luckily without passing any cops), so I just want to know where to start tomorrow, besides pulling the lights out to get to the bulbs and checking those.

Does doing the 'master reset' on the touchscreen have any effect on the BCM (which controls the lights, correct??) at all, or is that only for the screen and audio system?

Should I try that as well?

Thanks in advance.

 

[EndGame410]

sounds like a relay, I'd check the fuse box first thing. Check this diagram to find the right ones, looks like it's engine compartment fuse box number R13 for the high beams, F55 & F56 for high beams, F9 potentially as well. https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-fiesta-2014-2018-fuses-and-relay#2018_2019

 

[PunkST]

Relays fuses possible bad switch

 

[M-Sport fan]

sounds like a relay, I'd check the fuse box first thing. Check this diagram to find the right ones, looks like it's engine compartment fuse box number R13 for the high beams, F55 & F56 for high beams, F9 potentially as well. https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-fiesta-2014-2018-fuses-and-relay#2018_2019

THANKS!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Check the headlight Bulbs....I know it sounds silly. But I have came across vehicles that blow both bulbs at the same time. Also ....Do the headlights work on high beam still?

 

[Sam4]

Do you have OE spares to check with? I assume you're on upmarket bulbs. If they're the xenon's, did you melt them/cooling fan?
I think the lads strapped torches to their bonnet with gaffing tape whilst on journey........LOL

 

[Ford ST]

Come on guys this is why we have multimeters.
Obviously check fuses first but after that I'm going straight to multimeter and checking for power at the plug.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[EndGame410]

Come on guys this is why we have multimeters.
Obviously check fuses first but after that I'm going straight to multimeter and checking for power at the plug.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Yeah, that's my next step as well. If you haven't got a multimeter, go grab a $10 one from walmart, it'll at least tell you if you're getting voltage or not.

 

[M-Sport fan]

It was the bulbs.

I forgot just how long ago I installed these, and being high performance halogen, they are supposed to have a MUCH shorter lifespan than the 'lower output' factory OSRAMs (even though I believe that OSRAM actually made these for PIAA under sub-contact, since they say "Made In Germany" on them, and the blue pattern on them looks exactly like the Osram 'Night Breaker Laser 150%+' bulbs, LOL).
So they actually FAR exceeded their projected life expectancy.

On top of which I go on much more broken roads than most on here, (both destroyed paved ones in my area, and really rough gravel forestry roads when working on ARA rallies), so all of that vibration helps to KILL the filament 'coils'.

The driver's side one looked like there were no breaks in the filament, but just one sharp flick with my fingernail and it broke.

The passenger's side (what a damned PAIN that was to get out-had to unhook and move the coolant tank to get in there, why I guess I removed the whole light last time!) had the whole center of the coil part of the filament missing, so yup, as strange as it may seem they both went at the same exact time.

Maybe because I leave them on the auto setting, and there is a small current surge/'spike' delivered to them on every startup at night??

In any case, I re-installed the factory ones so I can drive at night for now, and have a set of Hella Performance 2.0s heading here for a tomorrow delivery, and I may also order a set of those Osram Lasers, or the PIAA 'Hyper Arros' bulbs, and keep them in the car for backups.

 

[PunkST]

Were these halogens?
Just curious.

 

[Ford ST]

Yes they are halogens this is one of the reasons why I will never use super premium halogens they are simply crap when it comes to life. LEDs that's what you want.
LEDs don't blind anyone if your headlights are aimed correctly I had a pair of low glare halogens in my focus the headlights were not adjusted properly, and I was getting flashed like crazy.

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[M-Sport fan]

The Sylvania Silverstar Ultras have the worst rep for burning out in less than a year, but yes, that's because they are generally considered the brightest, and furthest 'down the road light throwers' of the lot, among halogen bulbs.

I just do not trust myself to properly adjust, and orientate, an LED bulb in our standard reflector housing headlights, on top of which, If you choose the wrong one, (among the many thousands available), it will be many times brighter right in front of the car, but not give you as much distance down the road, as a great halogen bulb.

Yup a major PAIN to change them out so frequently, but not nearly as much pain as hitting those moosies when up in New England, or the trillions of whitetails here.

I would only consider LEDs in a Fiesta housing with reflectors purposely and specifically designed for them, regardless of how successful so many on here claim to be with the bulbs in our housings.

 

[PunkST]

I properly aimed my leds and still get flashed 😞.

 

[Ford ST]

I understand I use this website before I buy anything headlight related.

https://www.bulbfacts.com/

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Hmmm I aimed all of mine just for fun. Techmax....Audeax...Shikaris...Xenon Depots...Never once got flashed* Now I'm onto greener pastures with My Northern lighting concepts Retro Fits. and I will never look back...EVER.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Are there any pre-built/complete housing assemblies available (whether projector or otherwise) which are actually designed to use LED bulbs, which do NOT require one to mod, OR 'core' return their factory housings (so that I can keep my factory housings un-modified and stock if I choose)?

In other words, buy them, and then plug and play, and then put your factory housings complete, untouched, down the cellar?

 

[PunkST]

I dont think there are 😕 which is a real shame. Its not like the 90's where you could get projector everything

 

[Sam4]

Come on guys this is why we have multimeters.
Obviously check fuses first but after that I'm going straight to multimeter and checking for power at the plug.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Now here ya go bringing science into it. This is like a big episode of RoadKill. Any multimeters there? NO.

 

[EndGame410]

Are there any pre-built/complete housing assemblies available (whether projector or otherwise) which are actually designed to use LED bulbs, which do NOT require one to mod, OR 'core' return their factory housings (so that I can keep my factory housings un-modified and stock if I choose)?

In other words, buy them, and then plug and play, and then put your factory housings complete, untouched, down the cellar?

Well, the people in this thread seem to have had great results with the LED bulbs mentioned here: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...eadlights-all-the-basics-in-one-thread.20213/

Here's a breakdown of the parts you'd need for an LED projector lens upgrade (total cost $655.36 + Shipping):

Left Lens
LINK $274.81

Right Lens
LINK $274.81

H7 Bulb
LINK $39.99 (Pack of 2)

H7 Holder
LINK $8.99 (Pack of 2)

H1 Bulb
LINK $23.79 (Pack of 2)

H1 Holder
LINK $8.99 (Pack of 2)

PY21W Bulb
LINK $17.99 (Pack of 2)

Add-A-Circuit
LINK $5.99 (Pack of 3)

 

[M-Sport fan]

I am going to guess that 100 watt halogen bulbs, even with the proper relays, big gauge wiring, and fuses, will just liquify our factory plastic reflectors, connectors, and lenses, for not too much more light output than the stock 55 watt deals, correct?