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How to Install: Mishimoto Racing Thermostat

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Non-US
#1
Delete / Lock. How to Install: Mishimoto Racing Thermostat

Here is quick / rough guide on how to install the Mishimoto Racing Thermostat without having to remove the front half of the car. Please read prior to attempting to install. Hope this helps.

Mishimoto Thermostat: https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-fiesta-st-2014-thermostat.html

Before doing please do the following:

-Disconnect battery
-Invest in a External torx socket set. (https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-8...pID=31XTCfBxRCL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch )
-Invest in hose pinch pliers ( https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...pID=41Z5Cf5YSsL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch )
-Purchase a gallon of coolant 50/50 or concentrate + distilled water.


1)… Remove the following: Passenger side headlight, Disconnect coolant hoses from reservoir tank and remove coolant reservoir, Below the car there is a plastic cover that is covering the pulleys ( 2x T30 screws)


2)…Next get a 17mm spanner move the tensioner then remove the accessory belt. You just simply slip the belt from the alternator side and the idle pulley right below the alternator.



3)…Now to remove the alternator and the Idle pulley. There are three fasteners total attaching the alternator. Two on top and one towards the bottom. All are 15mm, Idle pulley bolt is 10mm. You would also need to use an External Torx socket to remove the stud on the top alternator bolt. REINSTALL: Torque the alternator stud to 7 ftlbs. The fasteners to 35 Ftlbs. Idle pulley to 18 Ftlbs. When reinstalling i'd recommend putting the bottom alternator bolt on first then the top two.







4)… Disconnect Alternator (13mm bolt), and electrical connector.



5)… Now you have access to the Thermostat housing. Before continuing you would have to back out the A/C compressor a little. If this isn’t done the lower portion of the thermostat housing will get snagged by a small portion of the A/C compressor. There are 3 fasteners total, 1 on top, 2 below. I would suggest completely loosening one at a time and screwing it back in so the compressor is still attached by a few threads. REINSTALL: Torque the 3 bolts at 17ftlbs.





6)… Disconnect electrical connector and plastic fastener that hold the alternator power wire, as well as hose clamp. There is also a retainer clip holding a coolant hose to the component on the thermostat housing shown in green in step 7, remove the clip and slide off the hose. There are 4 screws that hold the thermos stat housing. Two on top two right below the housing. They are all 8mm screws. REINSTALL: torque them down to 7 ftlbs.


7)… Before removing the 4 screws that hold the thermostat housing first disconnect the component shown in green. There are two 8mm bolts holding it down. REINSTALL: torque these would be 7ft lbs as well.



8)… Lastly remove the 4 bolts and holding the thermostat housing and then remove the hose clamp.





9) Now you just got remove the hold thermostat by pushing down and twisting the retainer. Then install the mishimoto thermostat the same way / position the old one is. Don’t forget to replace the gasket and make note of the position of the bubbler hole.

 


Last edited:

MKVIIST

5000 Post Club
Staff Member
Premium Account
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#2
Great write-up and thank you!
 


Messages
12
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10
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
#6
Well I installed the thermostat using the instructions and the job took me about 2hours. I have a oil cooler installed too and the cars coolant is staying under 200 degrees now with city driving multiple people in the car a/c blasting and 90 degree weather. I think the combo of the oil cooler and 160 degree thermostat has solved my over heating problems for now. I'll let you guys know what happens next time I do some hard mountain driving. But I'm thinking it will be fine. Thanks for the write up! I couldn't have done it with out it! Oh and I was quoted 350$ for the install so I saved some money!
 


Messages
445
Likes
519
Location
Metro Detroit
#8
I can remember when changing, or removing, the alternator took just 5 minutes. BTW there was a time when if you got a stuck thermostat you simply removed it and got back on the road. I can also remember when all you needed to do to fill the radiator was to remove the cap and pour in some anti freeze mix, no need for vacuum filling at all. To say that I am NOT impressed with some aspects of our engine design would be an under statement.

On the plus side this write up is most Excellent.
 


Messages
256
Likes
229
Location
Vancouver
#11
I think I gotta do this. I don't know if it's the colder weather but my coolant temp is taking forever to get to operating temp. At idle it will stay the same; it'll only go up during driving. The coolant temp will even drop sometimes before reaching operating temp. So I think my thermostat is stuck open.
 


Messages
24
Likes
15
Location
Austin
#12
had a bad gasket so figured may as well upgrade to the 160°, appreciate the post, and thanks Ron for the great service as always!!

thermostat.png
 


Messages
115
Likes
68
Location
San Diego, CA, USA
#14
Thanks for this write up. Just made swapping my radiator & t-stat very easy! The only thing I needed a hand with is the tensioner pulley. I don’t have a 17 long enough to do it from the top and can’t put belt on from the bottom 🤣😂
 




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