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Review: Gold Coast BBK (the “Taz” BBK)

shouldbeasy

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#21
Last question here about the rear brake pad nub, how do you ensure it sits in the channel between the blades of the X on the rear piston?
Piston rotates as it comes in and out - you can rotate it to a position where you can slip the pads in over the caliper.
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #24
So I shimmed the front brakes and the right rear and put everything back together. Man was that a pain in the butt cutting up cans and getting everything in there. I also spray painted the rotors and sanded them a bit to re-bed the brakes.

I’m happy to report I now have nice even wear all over the rotors and now with the extra paint have no rust strip near the hubs where the pads don’t contact the rotors. I also re-greased the slider pins with silicone grease just to make sure the brakes would engage correctly.

After bedding in the brakes again the grind was back in the front once hot. When the brakes cooled some I had no more grinding. It’s frustrating but whatever. Maybe the calipers are sticking a bit due to my fluid being old. I’m going to flush out the old fluid next weekend and see if that helps. I did have some wear on the bracket on the right front, so hopefully the shims help there.

I also found that my rear driver side pad was not lined up right on the inside due to the wear pattern on the rotor. Tomorrow I’ll see if that was fixed when I wound the piston back in and reseated the caliper on the rotor.

Does anyone else have grinding when the brakes get hot? Could it be from worn out fluid?
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #25
So after scouring the forums, I think I have grinding and sticking of the calipers because my ABS needs to be bled. I’m a newbie and didn’t crack the bleeder valves when I pushed my calipers back. I’m getting grinding and sticking I think because after 5-6 hard brake applications, my abs is starting to kick in. I can confirm the grinding is pad transfer when the calipers aren’t completely letting go in the front.

I purchased the FORScan app for my phone and already have the Bluetooth module for it... hoping to not have to do it all from my laptop just to run the ABS cycle and diagnostic.

I’m hoping I can gravity flush the system based on the “Chris Fix” method as I don’t really have anyone to help me bleed the system, and the motive bleeder is confusing to me with the adaptor and all that. Never thought it would take me 3 weeks to do a brake job, but I guess it’s all useful information for later. Car has never had the brake fluid changed, and it’s 4 years old now with 57k miles (no tracking). I’m sure it’s half water by now!
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #27
I’ll be bleeding them tonight but just doing the ABS bleed through FORScan completely seems to have fixed the issue. I thought the brakes were good, but now I can see how much better these are from stock .
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #29
Ugh. Brakes function fine, but occasionally when I start the car they will drag. I can tell by the boost vacuum. Stabbing the brakes helps unstick them. Also, notice brake pedal has to be pressed pretty deep to activate my brake light and if I press too hard I get the “no hill assist” warning.

I’ve run the brake diagnostics after getting a fault on FORScan after flushing the brakes. Everything is fine now with it and I’ve abs bled with it a couple times.

Never again will I forget to crack open the bleeder valve before compressing the caliper. Wonder if there’s something wrong with the brake switch or something. I’m at a loss at this point and I’m not comfortable tackling anything with the master cylinder.

Dave, you have any tips? No pedal to the floor, just brakes dragging occasionally... like some mornings or after bedding along with that stupid hill assist not available warning. I’m going to run diagnostic again and abs bleed. I’m 1000% sure there’s no other air in the line.
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #31
I’m discovering now... brakes only drag it get that auto hill warning when the weather is really cold.... like 35-38 degrees. They are fine in my warm garage on the way to work, but if it drops, by the time I get home (30 miles of almost no braking, 79MPH in the dark), it has issues. First, occasionally the cruise control won’t work. Then at low speed, I get grabbing and the hill warning chimes on my screen. I don’t trust my dealer!
 


Woods247

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#32
I’m discovering now... brakes only drag it get that auto hill warning when the weather is really cold.... like 35-38 degrees. They are fine in my warm garage on the way to work, but if it drops, by the time I get home (30 miles of almost no braking, 79MPH in the dark), it has issues. First, occasionally the cruise control won’t work. Then at low speed, I get grabbing and the hill warning chimes on my screen. I don’t trust my dealer!
At this point you should look for a reputable private shop if you don't trust the dealer. Find a local performance or race shop to correctly setup your brakes. You can ask them if they'll allow you to observe and learn. Just don't bother them haha. Brakes are the most important thing on your car..
 


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jayrod1980

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Thread Starter #33
Yeah, it’s important to note that none of this is the fault of the kit. Just my stupidity.
 




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