Several Failed Attempts Installing Spark Plugs

[Ford ST]

Please tell me you didn't put loctite on the spark plugs.

There's nothing wrong with learning I started at 12 years old but you don't do it on your daily driver. I have seen disastrous results from this a simple spark plug change result in a piston having a hole through it.

You can take it as me being rude I'm not.


But whatever man good luck to you hope your future projects turn out better.
And never not ever ever again use loctite during any process of a spark plug change not ever. I would seriously think about removing those plugs and cleaning that crap off.

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[the duke]

These plugs are dry. Do not use any anti-seize. It won’t hurt, but the anti seize acts as a lubricant and can skew torque readings. This subsequently leads to over tightening. For the fine thread design plugs don’t need high torque.

Also DO NOT use any thread locker.

 

[Rhinoserious]

I'm all for people learning to work on their own cars. Seems like too few people know how to even change a flat tire these days, let alone change spark plugs. But some mistakes can be fixed and some can lead to SERIOUS damage.

You should not have put loctite on the plugs. There is no reason to do this and will make changing the plugs in the future more difficult than it needs to be. You can use anti-seize (I don't) which will prevent the threads from sticking... which is what treadlocker is meant to do.

There is good and bad information on youtube. The problem is that if you follow the instructions from someone and, even if they get the results they want, if you make a mistake or it doesn't work for you, you're responsible and out for the time and $$ it takes to fix it.

I recommend finding a competent friend to work on the car with you or spend some time with a shop manual. Get the right parts, the right tools, do your research and stay safe.

Edit: if you just put threadlocker on, I HIGHLY recommend you go and pull the plugs now and wipe it off if you still can.

Thanks for this post. After I saw it, and the two posts above yours, I immediately went to autozone to buy what I needed. Got some anti-seize and dielectric grease, then picked up some isopropyl alcohol.

Went home, cleaned each plug off with cleaning alcohol and a wire brush, making sure to get off as much threadlocker as possible. Then, re-installed using some anti-seize and dielectric grease on each one, afterwards torqueing each to 14 ft. lbs

Runs great. I appreciate all the help. Admittedly, I'm pretty dimwitted, so it's no surprise my brain didn't even realize threadlocker on plugs = bad, i just saw threads and thought to use the blue stuff I had for anything that has threads. Now that I look back, I never once thought about it or questioned why I was doing it.

Well, I tend to learn things the hard way, so of course this would be no exception! At least its done and working great. I'll be back here one day with an even MORE cringeworthy story, I'm sure of it.

 

[SrsBsns]

Thanks for this post. After I saw it, and the two posts above yours, I immediately went to autozone to buy what I needed. Got some anti-seize and dielectric grease, then picked up some isopropyl alcohol.

Went home, cleaned each plug off with cleaning alcohol and a wire brush, making sure to get off as much threadlocker as possible. Then, re-installed using some anti-seize and dielectric grease on each one, afterwards torqueing each to 14 ft. lbs

Runs great. I appreciate all the help. Admittedly, I'm pretty dimwitted, so it's no surprise my brain didn't even realize threadlocker on plugs = bad, i just saw threads and thought to use the blue stuff I had for anything that has threads. Now that I look back, I never once thought about it or questioned why I was doing it.

Well, I tend to learn things the hard way, so of course this would be no exception! At least its done and working great. I'll be back here one day with an even MORE cringeworthy story, I'm sure of it.

Glad to hear that you were able to get the theadlocker off. That would have been a really bad situation if it would have fully set. AFIK, the threads are aluminum and you could do some serious damage for such a small mistake... talk about a new head.

Keep learning, avoid the cringe. Ask around on the forums to find out if anyone is working on their car and ask them if you can come over when they're wrenching. Buy them a beer for their time and learn how to do the job. Or do it the other way around, ask for someone that is competent to come help you the next time your'e doing a job. Personally, I like helping people where I can and have met a few fellow SD FiST owners and have offered to help for some jobs. Doesn't even have to be other Fiesta's.

Keep reading, and learning. Check out shop manuals (download the PDF's or go to the library) and read the job there. THEN, do the internet searching. Most times, people find shortcuts that work or tricks that help, but you should always understand the OE job first. There would be nothing worse than you having to replace your motor because you wanted to change plugs. There is learning the hard way and learning the smart way. I guess if your wallet can handle it, that's fine, but why go through the hassle if you can do it right the first time.

 

[scooter123]

Little update here!

Thanks for all the help/advice guys.

I DO think the gap directly caused porcelain damage, there is literally nothing else that could have. Was ultra careful upon insertion and removal, like one piece of advice in here I did hand tighten using the extension I had, and only actually tightened it snug with a ratchet at the end. AND there was never any porcelain damage with smaller gaps. I definitely disagree that it couldn't possibly be the gap.

Anyways, today I had a friend drive me to autozone, picked up some new plugs, same as all the rest I've used, SP-532. Bought a gauged/metered torque wrench(with the ft. lbs. display, not clicks) as well so I could tighten accurately. Got home, measured the gap on all 4, they are all right around .028, which is fine by me. Didn't mess with the gap, installed them, torque'd to spec, and my car works perfectly fine now with the expected amount of power and no misfiring when boost is applied.

I'm not gonna take the advice about leaving future car work to the pro's... I'm gonna keep learning on my own car, doing my own work, and making mistakes along the way. Of which there will likely be many.
I did replace my rear brakes as my first job (which included replacing a caliper due to a seized piston) so I'm confident I'll be fine goin forward.

I also did not use any dielectric grease.. Just a small amount of blue threadlocker on the threads of each plug.

Well you just made another BIG mistake, one that may require removal of the cylinder head to correct. From now on it's going to be difficult to remove those spark plugs. I would suggest that you spend the next week removing and re-installing the plugs on a daily basis. Soak the threads in acetone and wire brush them by hand each time to try and get as much of that locktite out as possible. Fail to do this and in 30K miles you may face a situation where the spark plugs cannot be removed.

Two Tips if you want to continue working on your car. Tip one is to get the Factory Service Manual. While it's a bit expensive at 185 bucks from Helm Publishing when you do just one major procedure using that manual and it will have paid for itself. Tip two, NEVER USE LOCKTITE UNLESS THE MANUAL CALLS FOR IT. BTW, having worked on cars since 1965 I really get peeved when someone just slaps on the locktite because it seemed like a good idea or some moron advised using it. In all my years of turning wrenches I've only seen Locktite called out for once, that was on the cam drive sprockets on a 1983 Honda V4 motorcycle engine.

After postng this I see that others pointed out your mistake. So it's good on you that part of this problem has been solved. However you really should get the Service Manual. Because they can actually provide excellent guidance on how to do thing's you are not familiar with.

 

[MagnetiseST]

You seem to be in need of this:

http://www.nicksmustangranch.com/Service_Manuals/2014/2014_Fiesta/Service Manual.htm

If you need specs or anything related to the ST specifically (so engine, transmission, suspension specs) always click on the option for "1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma" the other 1.6 is the base fiesta engine, and the other ecoboost is the 1.0 3 cylinder.

 

[The_Ryan]

Also as a heads up: depending on the plugs you're not even supposed to put anti-seize on the threads, or you may over-torque them even if you tighten to spec

 

[gtx3076]

Loc-tite on spark plugs. If you really hate somebody that's a great way to show it.

 

[Capri to ST]

I have a general principle of life that everything is easy if someone else is doing it. What I mean by that is it if you haven't done something it may seem simple, but if you're actually doing it, there may be a lot of things you don't know that could cause you to do it wrong.
This thread is a great illustration of that. Changing spark plugs may seem simple if you haven't done it, and it may be relatively simple if you know how to do it. But if you don't, there are clearly plenty of opportunities to mess it up, like overtightening or the improper use of Loctite.

 

[The_Ryan]

Eh.. I'd argue it's still pretty straight forward. I think OP just didn't have proper guidance and didn't do full research/think things through. Which has happened to all of us before, and is often the best way to truly learn something. OP definitely deserves lots of admiration for owning up to the mistake and stopping to ask for help.

 

[SteveS]

It's easy to see from this thread how misinformation can be created. The OP was convinced that spark plug gap was causing broken ceramics on the spark plugs. Imagine all the possible scenarios. What if on the final try he had bought a different brand of plugs and didn't overtorque them? Then there'd have been "proof" that the OEM plugs are junk and should never be used, and that the different brand is "superior". Or if he had happened to have an AP on order, it came in and he installed it with a new tune at the same time and it was step colder plugs which were the ones that finally didn't get overtorqued. Then there would be "proof" that step colder plugs were better and everyone should use them. Personal experience can be completely misinterpreted if you aren't looking at all the variables, and especially if, as in this case, you have been given some very wrong information about a basic procedure (tighten until they won't turn any more) and believe it to be true.

 

[gtx3076]

I learned a lot on my MS3. Changed the intake, down pipe, spark plugs, 02 sensors, turbo, timing chain, shifting assembly, gear oil, drive shafts, wheel bearings, bypass valve, map sensor, t-stat, brakes, rotors, lights, etc.

Never did an oil change until I bought and learned on that car. It's also why I wouldn't buy another, lol.

Changing plugs on that car was a pain because I never upgrade to a front mount intercooler. Stock location was mounted on top of the motor blocking the plugs.

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[jmrtsus]

Little update here!

Thanks for all the help/advice guys.

I DO think the gap directly caused porcelain damage, there is literally nothing else that could have. Was ultra careful upon insertion and removal, like one piece of advice in here I did hand tighten using the extension I had, and only actually tightened it snug with a ratchet at the end. AND there was never any porcelain damage with smaller gaps. I definitely disagree that it couldn't possibly be the gap.

Anyways, today I had a friend drive me to autozone, picked up some new plugs, same as all the rest I've used, SP-532. Bought a gauged/metered torque wrench(with the ft. lbs. display, not clicks) as well so I could tighten accurately. Got home, measured the gap on all 4, they are all right around .028, which is fine by me. Didn't mess with the gap, installed them, torque'd to spec, and my car works perfectly fine now with the expected amount of power and no misfiring when boost is applied.

I'm not gonna take the advice about leaving future car work to the pro's... I'm gonna keep learning on my own car, doing my own work, and making mistakes along the way. Of which there will likely be many.
I did replace my rear brakes as my first job (which included replacing a caliper due to a seized piston) so I'm confident I'll be fine goin forward.

I also did not use any dielectric grease.. Just a small amount of blue threadlocker on the threads of each plug.

M- Sport gave you the straight scoop. Plug gap CANNOT break the top porcelain, only improper installation/removal. The only thing gap affects is the spark distance.......nothing else. Also a thread locker compound is not a good idea, you need to use an anti-seize compound to make them easy to remove in the future. We all had a learning period. Keep at it!

 

[irontmp]

Well, after some time researching how easy/nooby a spark plug replacement job is, I figured I would jump in and try to replace my own since I just bought my car, it's almost at 30k miles, and I want the experience.

Well, I heard the most spark plugs are pre-gapped, and the SP-532 are advertised as such, so I didn't bother gapping when I tried it the first time (had heard of gapping previously).

Well, the engine rumbled and shook when any amount of boost applied and idle was rough, so took them out and the porcelain was cracked on all of them and broken on one.

So, I attempted a couple more times with different gaps. Tried .025, .028, and .030 again (OEM gap).

.025 and .028 were both wrong as there was still some misfire under boost, with .030 being VERY rough like first time and causing porcelain breakage once again.

I just want my car back. I scheduled a service on thursday, gonna deal without a car for now I suppose to use this site.

I know that spark plugs are supposed to be torqued, but I've talked to several friends that have done spark plug changes and none of them use a torque wrench, just tighten it until you cant anymore with your normal wrench.

Has anyone else ran into this before? Or heard of anyone not being able to get spark plugs right?

I am due to change my spark plugs. I am torn between the Denso Iridium and the NGK Laser Iridium. Does anyone know what is recommended and is their any danger in going with the laser iridium vs standard iridium (other than cost).

 

[Intuit]

Best to create your own thread @irontmp . Don't know if they're available but may also look at Ruthenium.

Laser iridium have platinum on the side electrode so they last longer than iridium.

Old post but while plug gap cannot be directly responsible for breaking the ceramics, the process of setting the plug gap, can circumstantially damage the ceramics.

Long-handled steel wire pipe cleaner brushes are GREAT for cleaning out spark plug well threads. On a prior vehicle, had years of sediment trapped in old anti-seize that made spark plug threading a risky affair at best. (I always blew out the wells with 150PSI before removal but some sediment still remains.) I didn't want to use a thread tap as this had the potential to needlessly remove thread material. I came up with the idea of using a steel wire pipe cleaner brush. It was very hard to turn because the steel wire brush head was significantly larger diameter than the bore; had to use pliers to turn it. After that, I could literally thread in my plugs by hand as if the engine just came off the factory line.

.

 

[XR650R]

I've been changing plugs on various vehicles for 50 years. Never used a torque wrench, never had a problem.
What I was told is that the threads are very fine and easy to strip if you go all gorilla on them.
You screw it in until it's pretty tight, then you crush the crush washer. You want to feel that washer get smooshed, then you stop.

If you remove a plug and put it back in, you have to remember that the washer is already crushed, so take it easy. It will still work as long as you don't strip the threads.
It's also been my experience that plugs aren't always pre-gapped to your application. Check it before you install it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Long-handled steel wire pipe cleaner brushes are GREAT for cleaning out spark plug well threads. On a prior vehicle, had years of sediment trapped in old anti-seize that made spark plug threading a risky affair at best. (I always blew out the wells with 150PSI before removal but some sediment still remains.) I didn't want to use a thread tap as this had the potential to needlessly remove thread material. I came up with the idea of using a steel wire pipe cleaner brush. It was very hard to turn because the steel wire brush head was significantly larger diameter than the bore; had to use pliers to turn it. After that, I could literally thread in my plugs by hand as if the engine just came off the factory line.

Good suggestion, but, it does create the potential for said residue, grit, and even the brush fines/material dropping into the combustion chamber.

Still, yes, a better compromise than not being able to get a plug into the head at all.

 

[Intuit]

Good suggestion, but, it does create the potential for said residue, grit, and even the brush fines/material dropping into the combustion chamber.

Still, yes, a better compromise than not being able to get a plug into the head at all.

Memory serving, I probably attached some vacuum tube to the end of a vacuum cleaner and ran it down the bore.

But you just insert the brush straight then twist it back out. That way most of it backs out with the brush.

Don't let the brush head fall completely into the cylinder or it may be difficult to get it back out. The handles stand up better to pushing than pulling.

.

 

[scooter123]

Folks, I do not think that Rhinoserious is with us any more. We may have been to harsh with him and his idiot mistakes but it is what it is. Not really any need to continue this thread.

 

[Intuit]

Even engineers and seasoned pros can learn or be reminded of something from the errors of a neophyte. Even to this day, I still like to read about (and see) auto accident situations.

After all, we were once as smart as a fifth grader... then the show proved otherwise. 😂