We need a big IC option! Listen up Companies!

M-Sport fan

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#81
Exactly this. All the guys going on and on about making this thing into a 1/4 mile weapon... Have you ever seen a 10 second Civic? They're unstreetable because you have to compromise so much to achieve that. I mean, good on you if you wanna make your FiST into a dedicated drag car, but it's not much else at that point. FWD cars are not meant for drag racing; just because you can throw a bunch of money at it and do it doesn't mean they're intended for it... It's like a lot of people are missing the plot with this car, in pursuit of cheap go-fast at the drag strip... Why not buy a foxbody and do 10s for $5000 and spend the rest on race fuel and tires?
Although many (on here and elsewhere) will argue to the death with you about the bolded above, I could not agree more. [thumb]
Hell, I don't even think that a FWD car makes the greatest road race car, even though many swear by them for that use, and they can do very well there (as many have campaigned them there with much success) with the correct mods, and still be mostly streetable afterwards.

My brother has a C6 LS2 Vette which has gone high 10s on minimal mods.
Despite it being a slushbox with a torque converter, he can just change the drag race wheels & tires, re-install the front swaybar, and STILL get around a road course with it better than ANY equally quick Civic could (and the TR6060/T56 equipped 10 second Vettes would be even better yet at this 'trick'). [wink]
 


Truth in Ruin

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#82
It takes a lot of skill/technique to launch FWD correctly. I have great respect to those who can do it, and do it well.
 


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#83
lol on two points. I have a fox body I run at brainerd on street car night. and launching the front drive car isn't the problem I have. it is the loss of traction at the top of first, second, and third gear at full boost. scares the crap out of me,,,,
 


TyphoonFiST

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#84
What about one of those wierd Freon coolers that uses the a/c to cool the income g charge? This is just a pipe dream here but a thought.

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OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #85
Someone step up
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #88
IMO, CP-E is the best option right now.
 


GAbOS

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#89
MAP IC is a bar and plate design as well.
 


jeffreylyon

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#91
IMO, CP-E is the best option right now.
MAP IC is a bar and plate design as well.

Depo is 28x6x3 @ $330
Whoosh is 28x6x3 @ $350, but with a polished core
CP-E is 29x6.25x3 @ $700

In my mind, it's Depo for best price/performance, Whoosh for another $20 for a polished core, and CP-E for the biggest and baddest from a company that's actually shipping product. (Depo and Whoosh include shipping - not sure about CP-E)

The other bar and plate I/Cs, like MAP and Cobb, can't match Depo/Whoosh's price/performance or CP-E's size.

It's another story if you're looking for a tube and fin I/C.
 


OP
re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #92
Depo is 28x6x3 @ $330
Whoosh is 28x6x3 @ $350, but with a polished core
CP-E is 29x6.25x3 @ $700

In my mind, it's Depo for best price/performance, Whoosh for another $20 for a polished core, and CP-E for the biggest and baddest from a company that's actually shipping product. (Depo and Whoosh include shipping - not sure about CP-E)

The other bar and plate I/Cs, like MAP and Cobb, can't match Depo/Whoosh's price/performance or CP-E's size.

It's another story if you're looking for a tube and fin I/C.
Tube and fin FTL.
 


M-Sport fan

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#93
IMO, CP-E is the best option right now.
Why I went with them, even for a factory snail (figured the cp-e could handle any/everything that could throw at it, even 'ragged edge' tuned), as well as a more mild hybrid setup. ;)
 


TyphoonFiST

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#95
New Pro-Alloy Motorsport IC,
How does that effect the cooling of the radiator? It's gonna be about $1500 with shipping to the states.....im concerned about the bumper brackets not lining up with American style crash bar holes. Again I'll reiterate this....We start a go fund me page and everyone throws in money and then pick someone to get the intercooler for fitment and performance testing. [emoji106]

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KKaWing

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#96
Umm... crash sensors might be in the way.
 


Brura22

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#98


Official quote from Russell.

He will be selling his designs for his parts.
 


frankiefiesta

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#99
OK, very true, but then one could just keep on going until you get to the point where you are grenading even the best over-built long block, with even the best internal, FULL RACE components.

WHY stop at 380?
Why not 475, 525, 680+?!? [dunno] (which will then make your 380 seems slow)

There has to be a point where power is exclusively a dyno queen bragging right, since it will become useless through the front wheels unless you go to a FULL ON drag race FWD suspension setup, with a spool/welded diff (and tube framing the whole front clip to fit the needed slicks) which is less than useless on the street (IF not outright DANGEROUS).

Also, unless it all comes on way up top, it is also useless for launching off of apexes on a road course, since the front wheels will just break loose at half throttle, regardless of how sticky an R compound/road race slick you have on the car.
Why stop at 300?? Lol

I'm not stopping at 380.. I just need to save more money for built motor, better turbo, lsd, etc. I'm talking to a few companies and can hopefully have 450-500whp sometime next year. Thats my goal.. that's if a solution for fueling comes out
 


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re-rx7

re-rx7

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Thread Starter #100
Why stop at 300?? Lol

I'm not stopping at 380.. I just need to save more money for built motor, better turbo, lsd, etc. I'm talking to a few companies and can hopefully have 450-500whp sometime next year. Thats my goal.. that's if a solution for fueling comes out
I admire the enthusiasm.
 


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