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You've got a new FiST and $1500...

TyphoonFiST

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#2
Beyond an upgraded engine mount, how would you spend your $1500 to best improve oveall performance?
Access port 3/AP3 by Cobb....then a Tune by Jason@dizzytuning....Stratified tuning or Tune plus....but just a flash tune....not a complete custom. Change the trans fluid to Ravenol 75w80....mutual 300 or BG synchro shift from whoosh. Drop in Air filter or ST200 air box or a "CAI". Mountune shift adapter or a whoosh one from whoosh motorsports. Possibly V2 whoosh intercooler.


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TyphoonFiST

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#4
These aren't ideas....these are things you will do! Everything I listed is the best bang for your buck & noticeable changes....besides next step to Hybrid or Big Turbo.


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Dib

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#5
I think the accessport is a must and the rest is up for debate. really depends on what you want from the car after that and what kind of money you want to spend on brands. I'm an advocate of a custom tune over a canned one. While I did go with all cobb bolt-ons int he beginning i wish i would haven't have bought the name. other parts work just as well and are cheaper. Intakes, downpipes, and intercoolers are available in all different sizes and each one will give you a decent power increase over stock w/tune. If you want more reliability out of the car i recommend a stiffer rear motor mount, oil catch can, and radiator upgrade (if you live in a hot area like tucson).

hindsight is 20/20

if i only had $1500, i would get an AP with a custom lifetime tune from tune+ because i know i'm not going to stop adding parts and the ability to tune for 91/93/e30 (~$800). A decent drop-in filter (~$50), woosh intercooler (~$300), catless downpipe (~$180), and rear motor mount (~$100). But i like to make my car faster first. and I'm pretty sure that it'll be the best go-bang for your buck. I also always do as many free mods as I can like "adding" lightness to my car for more go-fast. I stripped things i don't really need, like the interior in the trunk and spare. Most aren't comfortable with that though. I deleted the rear wiper and removed the rear headrests (better visibility and less weight). Even the smallest of things like the badges and under hood dampner stuff. Like I said, it really all depends on what you want from the car.
 

MRX330

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#6
Dorman expansion plug symposer delete should be first. Search option in menu. I would drive the car until you’re bored with it then ask yourself what you’re really craving. Oh, and while you’re driving the car stock save up at least 5 grand minimum. 🤑
 

jeffreylyon

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#7
catless downpipe (~$180)
Again and again it's been proven that a downpipe upgrade is not needed with a stock-body turbo. Some tuners even advise against one with a stock turbo. Moreover, don't be a dick and get a catless dp for the extra 5 HP just before redline that you'll see on a BT car. They are horrible for the environment and they stink - maybe you like the smell but nobody else does, including your fellow motorists, esp. those with breathing difficulties. If you don't believe *every* tuner and think that an upgraded DP is the way to go, even with your stock turbo, at least get one with a cat.
 

ron@whoosh

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#8
Beyond an upgraded engine mount, how would you spend your $1500 to best improve oveall performance?
COBB AP V3
whoosh V1 intercooler
whoosh SSD symposer delete
whoosh hot side j-pipe
itg drop in filter
NGK 6510 pre-gapped

we can supply this set up for under $1000 which will support the majority of the power the stock turbo can make
use the rest of your $1500 for a custom tune after the mods are installed
also swap out the factory fill with some Amsoil 5W30 signature series and filter

let me know if you'd like a custom quote sent your way
 

MRX330

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#9
Dorman expansion plug symposer delete should be first. Search option in menu. I would drive the car until you’re bored with it then ask yourself what you’re really craving. Oh, and while you’re driving the car stock save up at least 5 grand minimum. 🤑
Or you can waste a lot of money trying to make chicken salad out of chicken 💩
 
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San Juan
#10
COBB AP V3
whoosh V1 intercooler
whoosh SSD symposer delete
whoosh hot side j-pipe
itg drop in filter
NGK 6510 pre-gapped

we can supply this set up for under $1000 which will support the majority of the power the stock turbo can make
use the rest of your $1500 for a custom tune after the mods are installed
also swap out the factory fill with some Amsoil 5W30 signature series and filter

let me know if you'd like a custom quote sent your way
Add to this cutting off the factory Muffler for some racer car sound and that's about right.

a good custom tune for that great torque curve and thats it
 
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San Antonio
#13
COBB AP V3
whoosh V1 intercooler
whoosh SSD symposer delete
whoosh hot side j-pipe
itg drop in filter
NGK 6510 pre-gapped

we can supply this set up for under $1000 which will support the majority of the power the stock turbo can make
use the rest of your $1500 for a custom tune after the mods are installed
also swap out the factory fill with some Amsoil 5W30 signature series and filter

let me know if you'd like a custom quote sent your way
+1 to this. If I had to do it over this is the route I would start with
 
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#15
I think the accessport is a must and the rest is up for debate. really depends on what you want from the car after that and what kind of money you want to spend on brands. I'm an advocate of a custom tune over a canned one...
I absolutely recommend a custom tune. I went with Dizzy Tuning and it was the best $150 I've spent so far. For the extra $75 over a canned tune I have the peace of mind that my tuner (Jason in this case) was dialing in the tune to work best with my particular engine and accessory setup.

My big takeaway from that process was that, unless you plan to go big turbo, you really only need a rear motor mount, a drop-in air filter, one-step-cooler plugs, and a bigger intercooler to have a custom tune totally transform the car.
 

TyphoonFiST

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#17
Out of ignorance, what benefits are there to swapping trans fluid?
Making sure 2L is in there....instead if the 1.6L stated by the manual which they later attributed to bearing failure in some Transmissions. Also shift characteristics drastically improved....it is felt and cannot be explained.

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#19
Making sure 2L is in there....instead if the 1.6L stated by the manual which they later attributed to bearing failure in some Transmissions. Also shift characteristics drastically improved....it is felt and cannot be explained.

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Umm yeah i havent done that..... I probably should.
 

MRX330

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#20
Making sure 2L is in there....instead if the 1.6L stated by the manual which they later attributed to bearing failure in some Transmissions. Also shift characteristics drastically improved....it is felt and cannot be explained.

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I want my 2 liters!!!
 

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