Trouble w/ dash cam

[cxwrench]

I bought a Blacksys CH-200 and I'm doing the install. I'm using a fuse tap like I did for my radar detector. I soldered the wire from the fuse tap to the power wire from the cam, and then heat-shrinked it. I got it to power up once, it formatted the card then I unplugged it, ran the wire up to where I want to install the cam, plugged it back in...nothing. I switched it to the circuit I use for my V1...nothing. Fuses are good, ground is good. Any ideas?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I bought a Blacksys CH-200 and I'm doing the install. I'm using a fuse tap like I did for my radar detector. I soldered the wire from the fuse tap to the power wire from the cam, and then heat-shrinked it. I got it to power up once, it formatted the card then I unplugged it, ran the wire up to where I want to install the cam, plugged it back in...nothing. I switched it to the circuit I use for my V1...nothing. Fuses are good, ground is good. Any ideas?

Did you contact blacksys Tech support?

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[cxwrench]

Did you contact blacksys Tech support?

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They're not around on the weekend according to the website and it's Sunday in Korea. Tried Amazon tech help...completely worthless.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

They're not around on the weekend according to the website and it's Sunday in Korea. Tried Amazon tech help...completely worthless.

No tech support on interweb via live chat?

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[alexrex20]

Did you check the fuse? It's probably not the camera. But I would hook it direct to the battery to see if it will power up. If it does, it's something in your wiring. Don't overthink it. It could be something as simple as the fuse in your fuse-tap or a failed solder joint inside your heatshrink. If you have a voltmeter, I would just start probing and see where the voltage disappears.

 

[MKVIIST]

Try turning the car on, to see if that sends power to the remote wire.

 

[colin051067]

Have you tried a circuit tester @ fuse & then @ point it goes into camera


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[cxwrench]

Thanks for the tips, now I've got some more things to check. All of the fuses are good, both in the tap and the inline glass fuse in the hardwire kit. I re-did my solder joint (power wire to fuse tap wire). I've got a multi meter but I'm electronically handicapped . I'll get back in there and see what I can figure out...thanks guys!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Thanks for the tips, now I've got some more things to check. All of the fuses are good, both in the tap and the inline glass fuse in the hardwire kit. I re-did my solder joint (power wire to fuse tap wire). I've got a multi meter but I'm electronically handicapped . I'll get back in there and see what I can figure out...thanks guys!

Replace the fuses anyways...sometimes the fuse is blown but doesn't appear to be blown!

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[alexrex20]

Check to make sure the connections in the glass fuse holder are actually touching the fuse end.

With your meter, just set it to read volts and put one lead on the battery negative terminal. Then take the other lead and backprobe each connection of your wiring. Start at the connection closest to the power supply. In your case, start at the fuse tap. Make sure you're getting voltage. It should be about 12.5-13V. If you have voltage, then move to the next connection, and so on and so forth. When you get to the connection where there is no voltage, then you know your fault is somewhere between that connection and the previous one that tested good.

Also, make sure the circuit you're tapping into is actually hot when you want it to be, and actually hot when you're testing it. For example, if you chose a circuit that is only ON when the ignition is ON, then make sure you're not testing it with the ignition OFF. It sounds simple on paper but we all have brain farts and I've made this mistake countless times.

Edit to add: Before doing any of that, I would take a jumper wire and hook up your camera directly to the battery. If it does not power up, then it is a faulty camera. If it does power up, then you know the fault is somewhere in the wiring. Sorry, I kinda went backwards in the order you should do things.

 

[STeezy]

Dont use fuse taps please. They're frowned upon for good reason.

When looking for a true switched accessory, you go the RAP (retained accessory power) wire.

9/10 times you can get to it in the driver or passenger kick panel. I can get you the wire color and location tomorrow. I do electrical work on cars for a living. I'm actually going to do a post here soon for all the common audio & ignition, door locks, CAN BUS wires, etc. So anybody looking to do accessory items or anything like that will have most everything they may need.

 

[alexrex20]

so basically, DIY solutions are frowned upon by people that want you to pay them to do it for you.

 

[XR650R]

Replace the fuses anyways...sometimes the fuse is blown but doesn't appear to be blown!

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Very true.

Many years ago, I was looking for what seemed to be a blown fuse. It was playing hell with the car. I looked at them, I tested them with a meter. They looked fine.

It was frustrating. I did a little deductive reasoning, and replaced a single fuse.

Fixed, good as new. Never happened again.

The fuse blew at one end, not in the middle where it's obvious.

99.9% of fuses blow where you can see it. Not that time.

 

[lowda9]

You need to use a hardwire kit for dash cam instead of tapping into the power wire for the radar. Or use the included cig adapter. The hardwire kit comes with a converter that converts the 12v input to 5v input 2a output that the dash cam needs to run. The included cig adapter converts it as well.

 

[STeezy]

so basically, DIY solutions are frowned upon by people that want you to pay them to do it for you.

You feel good about that one? Go to the RAP wire because it's a higher amp circuit. Fuse won't blow, and you won't have a huge fused wire coming out of your fuse box.

I wasn't like "pay me and I'll pm you info".

 

[cxwrench]

You need to use a hardwire kit for dash cam instead of tapping into the power wire for the radar. Or use the included cig adapter. The hardwire kit comes with a converter that converts the 12v input to 5v input 2a output that the dash cam needs to run. The included cig adapter converts it as well.

There was no 'included cigarette adapter'. I never tapped into the power wire for the radar detector nor said I did.

 

[lowda9]

There was no 'included cigarette adapter'. I never tapped into the power wire for the radar detector nor said I did.

Well you shouldn't attempt to wire if you can't do it. I myself did it easy peasy.

 

[cxwrench]

Well you shouldn't attempt to wire if you can't do it. I myself did it easy peasy.

I hardwired my V1 right after I bought the car, not 1 problem in over 4.5 years. It's not like I don't know how to do it. I'm jealous that you're so much more intelligent than I am.

 

[lowda9]

Ok Mr. Come on forum and ask for diagnostic but can't take an answer cuz he's a sensitive dude.

 

[cxwrench]

Ok Mr. Come on forum and ask for diagnostic but can't take an answer cuz he's a sensitive dude.

How's that again? You made 2 suggestions that wouldn't work because you didn't read the whole thread.