Woods247 BrokeFiST Build

[cidsamuth]

I prefer having the dash lights off and OEM fuel cut off. Simple as that. Bothers some and doesn’t bother others. Same as a dirty car. Some people are clean and some aren’t.

If it's only about lights while on the street, you could always put a toggle switch on the RCM. If you want the lights off on the track, or want the OEM fuel cut on the track, this obviously won't help.

The other option for the lights . . . which I'm eventually going to do . . . is pull the gauge cluster and disable the actual bulbs.

I don't think you're going to find a solution for disabling or changing the crash detection parameters. So, you're not going to get this problem solved without some give-and-take.

For the record, my 2008 Mustang has the inertia switch that I installed on my 2015 FiST. I don't know when Ford went to the RCM controlled format on the different models, but the inertia switch is not ancient or obsolete tech by any means.

 

[Woods247]

Cuz you took the evap canister off or cuz you don’t street the car any longer?

The diffuser didn’t clear it

 

[Woods247]

You could've sold that for a pretty penny on here, as there are MANY looking for those things being totally 'out of print' currently.

Too bad he stopped making them. This is actually the very first so it’s probly worth billions. 😂

 

[Woods247]

If it's only about lights while on the street, you could always put a toggle switch on the RCM. If you want the lights off on the track, or want the OEM fuel cut on the track, this obviously won't help.

The other option for the lights . . . which I'm eventually going to do . . . is pull the gauge cluster and disable the actual bulbs.

I don't think you're going to find a solution for disabling or changing the crash detection parameters. So, you're not going to get this problem solved without some give-and-take.

For the record, my 2008 Mustang has the inertia switch that I installed on my 2015 FiST. I don't know when Ford went to the RCM controlled format on the different models, but the inertia switch is not ancient or obsolete tech by any means.

I’ll figure it out. It’ll just take time. My seat heater button now operates my cool shirt pump. If I can do that I can do anything lol

 

[M-Sport fan]

The other option for the lights . . . which I'm eventually going to do . . . is pull the gauge cluster and disable the actual bulbs.

This may not work, as I tried doing exactly this to disable the AIRBAG dash light on my 4th gen Z28 when I replaced the huge, fugly factory 'bus wheel' with a Sparco 383, and as a 'fail safe' (I am guessing??) GM then had it programmed to light up other dash lights instead, it seems.

I am not sure if Ford does the same or not.

 

[cidsamuth]

This may not work, as I tried doing exactly this to disable the AIRBAG dash light on my 4th gen Z28 when I replaced the huge, fugly factory 'bus wheel' with a Sparco 383, and as a 'fail safe' (I am guessing??) GM then had it programmed to light up other dash lights instead, it seems.

I am not sure if Ford does the same or not.

well, if that is a risk, I guess the safe bet would be to just paint the bulbs black so that you can’t tell it is lit.

 

[Woods247]

Things I learned at Road Atlanta today:
1) taking the canards off didn’t increase top speed and decreased front grip at higher speeds (they work)
2) adding a Verus rear diffuser didn’t increase top speed
3) cutting holes in my hood didn’t increase top speed or change anything besides appearance
4) changing the rear wing AOA didn’t increase top speed (might try a smaller airfoil)
5) Federal tires still suck balls on a track regardless of what the internet says
6) upgrading the Swift spring rates, DNA front control arms and DNA rear bushings was worth the money
7) I need to purchase a new turbo (preferably something made in the USA) and install my XDi HPFP and Pumaspeed injectors to increase top speed
8) I still want to keep the car even if the RCM has to be unplugged at Barber and AMP

 

[Jabbit]

Need more info on number 6, specifically the bushings. What was improved most, the overall feel?

 

[WannabeST]

Sorry to hear about all the issues you are having with your car. If I was in your situation, I would probably just rid the car of the RCM and remove the bulb or paint it black.
Second option would be to simply add a switch to disable the RCM.
If not, then I would just replace the RCM with some sort of yaw sensor on the fuel pumps, I'm sure this would be easier than reprogramming the RCM and finding someone to do so.
I understand the whole "just buy this" mindset. My mustang Gt is minimum 10 seconds faster on track than my fiesta and the bigger the track gets, the time can be up to 25-30 seconds. So I completely understand wanting a faster car that's actually built for speed. But there is nothing more rewarding and impressive than driving a slow econobox fast. I get 10X more impressed faces, compliments, and phones out when I track my fiesta vs the mustang.

 

[Woods247]

Sorry to hear about all the issues you are having with your car. If I was in your situation, I would probably just rid the car of the RCM and remove the bulb or paint it black.
Second option would be to simply add a switch to disable the RCM.
If not, then I would just replace the RCM with some sort of yaw sensor on the fuel pumps, I'm sure this would be easier than reprogramming the RCM and finding someone to do so.
I understand the whole "just buy this" mindset. My mustang Gt is minimum 10 seconds faster on track than my fiesta and the bigger the track gets, the time can be up to 25-30 seconds. So I completely understand wanting a faster car that's actually built for speed. But there is nothing more rewarding and impressive than driving a slow econobox fast. I get 10X more impressed faces, compliments, and phones out when I track my fiesta vs the mustang.

It’s not that I want a faster car. I can buy a Porsche or a retired race car but I’m not trying to win anything. I enjoy progressing with my Fiesta and simply need to prevent it from killing power in dangerous turns. Many other new cars do the same and even pop airbags from what track friends are telling me. Every street car will have a track handicap. So far the Fiesta’s is minimal and it’s proved to be incredibly reliable and economical.

Unplugging the RCM is a workaround but not a solution. My center console isn’t installed so accessing it is easier than integrating a switch. I’m not sure how I’d even approach that or add different yaw rate sensors anyways.. I want the dash lights fully functional so I know if there’s actually a problem. I still have to pass emissions because I drive it on the street as well. I don’t mind spending time to do things cleanly and correctly. I’ve proven that I think. The point of this car is to keep me engaged in the garage and have fun driving it everywhere. It’s a street car build and things like this happen. Most people would do exactly what you suggest then move on to some other platform a year later and hand the next guys a pile of questions. I’m dedicated to this car because aside from the RCM problem, I have absolutely nothing negative to say about it. Well, that and 4x108 hubs. It’s pretty damn fast with 300whp. When I bump to 450whp it should be quite terrifying. At the end of the day, all this is for fun but the false-positive stuff ALWAYS pisses me off no matter what it’s associated with.

 

[Woods247]

It passed emissions today. 👍

 

[Woods247]

Need more info on number 6, specifically the bushings. What was improved most, the overall feel?

Yeah it’s hard to explain but the suspension is more active and the car always seems to be flat (kind of like an off road truck wheeling without sway bars). Going from a soft sidewall tire like the 595 RSR to a firmer RT660 is much more noticeable. I can feel the difference albeit subtle but it’s there. With the same tires I feel more grip. Some of that has to do with 2k higher spring rates front and rear but the suspension is definitely freed up and moves easier. I used to get a pretty good kick in the steering wheel when I jump or drift into curbing but now it’s less. The front tire seems to stay on the ground better as well (which could be a result in faster rebound due to higher spring rates) but there is noticeable improvement in suspension compliance. DNA seems to make good stuff. Hopefully they last long. My DNA Race end-links have been trouble free for years. I’d say if budget permits, go with DNA over the poly stuff. It’s less susceptible to temperature variations too. @ron@whoosh sells the Super Pro kit now. I think I’d still buy DNA LCAs but the caster offering from Super Pro is appealing. My caster is still in spec. The DNA rear bushings are in a league of their own though.

 

[jeffreylyon]

Things I learned at Road Atlanta today:
1) taking the canards off didn’t increase top speed and decreased front grip at higher speeds (they work)
2) adding a Verus rear diffuser didn’t increase top speed
3) cutting holes in my hood didn’t increase top speed or change anything besides appearance
4) changing the rear wing AOA didn’t increase top speed (might try a smaller airfoil)
5) Federal tires still suck balls on a track regardless of what the internet says
6) upgrading the Swift spring rates, DNA front control arms and DNA rear bushings was worth the money
7) I need to purchase a new turbo (preferably something made in the USA) and install my XDi HPFP and Pumaspeed injectors to increase top speed
8) I still want to keep the car even if the RCM has to be unplugged at Barber and AMP

I have questions!

Did you try running with and without canards after you vented the hood?
I was curious as to how a diffuser that starts at the swing axel would work. It seems not very well.
Are your rear liners still getting blown onto the tires? If not, the air has to be flowing out of your hood vents, no?

 

[esp_martin]

I have questions!

Did you try running with and without canards after you vented the hood?
I was curious as to how a diffuser that starts at the swing axel would work. It seems not very well.
Are your rear liners still getting blown onto the tires? If not, the air has to be flowing out of your hood vents, no?

unless @Woods247 has another hood waiting in the wings i think we're gonna find out what the car's like with canard and a vented hood since it sounds like he's going to put that canards back on.

be interesting to see what turbo gets put on the Broke Build. we might have @MO15Fiesta pushing the Fiesta limits at the drag strip and @Woods247 pushing the limits on the track!

 

[Woods247]

I have questions!

Did you try running with and without canards after you vented the hood?
I was curious as to how a diffuser that starts at the swing axel would work. It seems not very well.
Are your rear liners still getting blown onto the tires? If not, the air has to be flowing out of your hood vents, no?

Before I had big aero, I used to run without canards on the street between track days because they killed my mpgs. After I bought the hauler I just left them on..

The drag from the wing and splitter are significant. The hood vents might be allowing more airflow out of the engine bay but not enough to justify their expense and whatever air caught under the hood isn’t the problem. These vents are huge so if there’s packed air, they’re definitely evacuate it. Maybe they’ll be beneficial when the car sees higher speeds but they’re pointless at this stage. I need to see if the smoke from the popped 996 engine is flowing through them. I hope I have video of that.

I don’t think the Verus diffuser does anything. It is a MASSIVE pain in the ass to remove and install but maybe I’ll take the time to drop next Thursday when I’m back at Road Atlanta to test. If I don’t see any gains I’m leaving it off.

My rear liners are long gone. 235s ate them. I’m actually building a shorty set out of ABS sheet tomorrow to block off the pocket behind the rear tires. I doubt it’ll make a aero difference but I’d like to keep rubber and debris from building up back there. Opening the rear grill mesh does make a difference and reduces the parachute effect. That’s confirmed. I thought for sure the Verus diffuser would be more effective but the air is so turbulent by the time it gets to it, I don’t think it does anything. Maybe it helps at 70mph but as far as I can tell it’s no better than shaving the rear grill.

I also plan to take my mid sized rear wing Thursday and see what numbers it makes. I might even try my OEM wing with the custom lip again since I never ran it with 235s. The simplest option is to buy a larger turbo and install the HPFP and injectors I have sitting in a box. 350whp will fix it all 😂

 

[Woods247]

unless @Woods247 has another hood waiting in the wings i think we're gonna find out what the car's like with canard and a vented hood since it sounds like he's going to put that canards back on.

be interesting to see what turbo gets put on the Broke Build. we might have @MO15Fiesta pushing the Fiesta limits at the drag strip and @Woods247 pushing the limits on the track!

I’ve been waiting to see what he says about the new turbo coming out. That’s the only reason I haven’t purchased a S280. I’d like to know what its advantages are when combined with the XDI HPFP and 30% or 50% injectors. I won’t push my current engine past 350hp for reliability reasons but the engine I’m building will be pushed as high as possible. Wesley’s car would be a great platform to test upgraded transmissions as well, which is probably something both of us will need. It’s amazing how much time we lose shifting.

 

[the duke]

Things I learned at Road Atlanta today:
1) taking the canards off didn’t increase top speed and decreased front grip at higher speeds (they work)
I'm guessing the rear wing is causing enough drag whatever drag is caused by the canards is essentially inconsequential
2) adding a Verus rear diffuser didn’t increase top speed
I'm not surprised, we have a hatchback. We have LOTs of turbulent/unattached due to the car just ending. And we don't have the benefit of a real Kammback design. That diffuser sort of has a snowballs chance in hell.
3) cutting holes in my hood didn’t increase top speed or change anything besides appearance
The primary purpose of this was more to reduce temps and adjust lift/pressure at the front, yes? I wouldn't expect speed to increase, just venting of pressure/radiator heat.
4) changing the rear wing AOA didn’t increase top speed (might try a smaller airfoil)
See 1 with the drag, and like point 7 guess this is more power related.
5) Federal tires still suck balls on a track regardless of what the internet says
I've heard this about the 555Rs...
6) upgrading the Swift spring rates, DNA front control arms and DNA rear bushings was worth the money
7) I need to purchase a new turbo (preferably something made in the USA) and install my XDi HPFP and Pumaspeed injectors to increase top speed
8) I still want to keep the car even if the RCM has to be unplugged at Barber and AMP

View attachment 54685

If you're really interested, perform a tuft test on the car, adn see what tweaking the aero does.

 

[Woods247]

If you're really interested, perform a tuft test on the car, adn see what tweaking the aero does.

Diffusers work on hatchbacks. This car has an exposed beam that disturbs the airflow before the Verus diffuser so it’s not very effective. Not in my application anyway.. The splitter and wing create downforce and drag which slows acceleration as speed increases, especially while WOT in 5th to redline. I have data that shows the car bounces between 124mph and 125mph (in different aero configurations) for a few seconds before I reach the top of T9 then accelerates as soon as I crest the hill. I’ll be adding more power next and build ducting behind the grill. It needs power anyways given it’s classed in Street Mod and I’d like to be competitive. I just haven’t added power because I needed to get the suspension and my driving comfort dialed first. My car and I are balanced so the hard part is done. My lap times are consistent at every track so power is the logical next step.

Regarding tufting, it’s easier to make tweaks and look at the numbers instead of reviewing video of yarn. It needs more power to really take advantage of the aero and extra grip from 235s. The hood vents might be more effecting after I duct the coolers behind the grill and tufting would be a good way to visualize flow before and after. I’m sort of stuck with them unless I buy another hood anyways though. I don’t think they are (or will) make the car slower and it definitely cools down quicker with them. I’ll tape yarn inside and around them soon just so we can see what’s happening.

 

[Woods247]

My car passed emissions again.😁 Blows my mind every time.

 

[Woods247]

I used ForScan to bleed my brakes today. Way easier for my wife to click the icon than crack the bleeders. 😂 Seems like the pedal feels a lot better as well.