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COOLERWORX Pro Short Shifter Installation Tips & Tricks + Linkage Redesign Discussion

Woods247

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likely the smart thing to do, but the confusing thing is the sensor for reverse is on the transmission, there's nothing in the shifter itself
Gotta be coincidence. Hopefully it’s a simple relay or something. My buddy chased down everything before looking at his bulbs lol. Both were burnt out. Your wiper isn’t working either, so it’s likely something else.
 


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Yeah, I was KIDDING, and making a vain/futile attempt at snark. [wink]

But, yes, a gear set/cluster/linkage which converts the whole thing to a sequential, while fitting into the IB6 case, (a la the PPG {Pfitzner Performance Gearboxes} setups for the T56s) would be a cool, lower-cost option for those willing to put up with the hassles of a straight cut gear, sequential box.
The Fiesta R2 sequential will bolt up, you will need new axles, clutch, transmission mounts, and some other parts though, we have done it. If you look far enough they can be had for around $1,500-$3,000 used, you will need to contact some European rally teams to find one. I would recommend looking for the R2T Sadev gearbox that needs a rebuild for cheap, and then just rebuilding it yourself, they are easier to rebuild than the IB6. The R2T has stronger different ratios that will be considerably better on the street. You will lose 6th gear and the ratios are still not great on the highway so you may want to consider ordering different ratios for the street. The axles and hubs can be found for cheap used, however, you will need 5 lug wheels.
If you buy it new from Sadev the gearbox is about $4,500 + postage from Europe (if you're in North America).

Pretty crazy when you consider that the coolerworx shifter is about 20% of the cost of a full-fledged sequential transmission. If you add an LSD that increases to 44% lol.
 


M-Sport fan

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The Fiesta R2 sequential will bolt up, you will need new axles, clutch, transmission mounts, and some other parts though, we have done it. If you look far enough they can be had for around $1,500-$3,000 used, you will need to contact some European rally teams to find one. I would recommend looking for the R2T Sadev gearbox that needs a rebuild for cheap, and then just rebuilding it yourself, they are easier to rebuild than the IB6. The R2T has stronger different ratios that will be considerably better on the street. You will lose 6th gear and the ratios are still not great on the highway so you may want to consider ordering different ratios for the street. The axles and hubs can be found for cheap used, however, you will need 5 lug wheels.
If you buy it new from Sadev the gearbox is about $4,500 + postage from Europe (if you're in North America).

Pretty crazy when you consider that the coolerworx shifter is about 20% of the cost of a full-fledged sequential transmission. If you add an LSD that increases to 44% lol.
Yes, I know all about the R2 Sadev boxes, albeit I did not know that they were that inexpensive NEW (an ARA rallyist from the midwest, with an NA Fiesta Limited 2WD class car told me this in the Parc Expose @STPR last year, but I did not believe him!).

I'm sure this is the box that was in ACP's OPEN 2WD class FiST which he drove for Team O'Neil years ago.

Are the hubs' PCDs 5x108s?? I could never get a definitive answer as to what the R2/R2T cars were using as far as bolt pattern goes (the R1 cars used OUR 4x108 PCD).

Despite the gear scream, and crunchy/clangy first gear engagements, I would be crazy enough to consider this gearbox in the far future IF it were not for the constant, every 5K mile (or less!) rebuilds they require, this being my only car. [:(]

It also would probably not survive even one major stop and go traffic jam either. But yeah, that the co$t of the Coolerworx is a significant portion of the price of a real sequential is one of the reasons there is not one in my car already. [wink]
 


Woods247

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Why was a sequential even mentioned here? This shifter is for street/track. It’s knob placement and short throw are perfect for those applications. Sequential is race only. This is just an expensive tall short shifter that might or might not break on you and it’s awesome. Buy a car with paddles if shifting patterns bother you. They’re faster anyways lol.
 


M-Sport fan

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It was only mentioned in a joking manner, since the Coolerworx shifter resembles most sequential shifters out there, and costs a bunch.

Sorry, I will not ever bring it up again, or respond to anyone else who does in this thread. [wink]
 


Woods247

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Edit: I was given incorrect information. I received a shifter after 1/1/20 with the older angled linkage (see pic of the new straight design below). It required many, many emails to Coolerworx to acquire the updated parts. Whoosh does not provide replacement parts so be aware. It could take a long time to get the replacements, if yours breaks. Though mine hasn’t broken, the design is flawed. I absolutely love it but if I did it again, I’d buy a CAE for peace of mind. There’s a UK company “ZeroPointOne” designing one now as well. Here is a pic of the replacement parts:

EAC19E89-3267-4338-9A43-9521CB05522A.jpeg

THIS ORIGINAL POST IS WRONG — PSA: Shifters after Jan 1, 2020 have the newer design. I have a newer one. I’ll keep an eye on the YouTube fella’s issue. So far, it’s been flawless.
 


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Woods247

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It was only mentioned in a joking manner, since the Coolerworx shifter resembles most sequential shifters out there, and costs a bunch.

Sorry, I will not ever bring it up again, or respond to anyone else who does in this thread. [wink]
My reply was a bit snarky after I re-read it. Sorry about that. Paddles (especially PDK) are awesome though. Please don’t hate me.
 


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PSA: Shifters after Jan 1, 2020 have the newer design. I have a newer one. I’ll keep an eye on the YouTube fella’s issue. So far, it’s been flawless.
Any indication of what the newer design actually entails? Portions of mine look different then the fellow in the YouTube video, but not the portions that broke..
 


Woods247

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Any indication of what the newer design actually entails? Portions of mine look different then the fellow in the YouTube video, but not the portions that broke..
I’m not sure what was changed. I will post pics of mine if you post pics of yours. ;) I’ll take some this weekend and post them here.
 


MagnetiseST

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PSA: Shifters after Jan 1, 2020 have the newer design. I have a newer one. I’ll keep an eye on the YouTube fella’s issue. So far, it’s been flawless.
I got mine Feb 25th but I have a sneaking suspicion its the older version. Ron had it around for a while and no one bought it so he gave me a good deal.
 


Woods247

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I wish I’d asked him to lay them side by side and take measurements before reinstalling it, but I’m sure he was ready to be done with it. I’m just thankful he made the video. You can see the new lever is almost straight. I’m going to confirm that mine looks like that in the morning.
 


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I have mine from earlier this year with the reliability improvements incorporated, and have used it quite a bit, really like it. It does squew the angle of the patttern especially reverse, it feels odd, but I got used to it. Couple of notes to add in case it's helpful:

1. Remove the battery for access, install solid alum bushings for the mounting plate (this is necessary for proper feel and reliable low effort shifts)
2. While you're there, reset the cable so the trans mounted lever is centered perfectly for 4th gear (I didn't do this at first, and I had to reset all the stops afterwards).
3. Setting the stops, requires a certain play/gap when it's in gear between the shifter and the stops. Don't try to make this tight, I had it a little tighter initially then it is now, and had to shift fast and more forcefully than needed, a gentle movement should be able to get it into gear if all is proper.
3. Shift with low or moderate effort/force, it's all that,s necessary once everything is properly set up, and I think it's also important for reliability.
 


Woods247

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Mine was shipped after 1/20 and it’s the old version. Who knows man... The linkage I have is more of an elbow, not straight. 8693EA06-C69D-4A4C-9533-79B7FDAD08DC.jpeg
 


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Woods247

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Notice the old dogleg design in mine above. Here is the new version you have to get directly from Coolerworx. It took a lot of following up to finally get them to ship these. Communication is poor. Mine hasn’t broken, but it was absolutely necessary to have the new parts available in the event the shifter breaks during a track weekend. The shifter feels phenomenal but I’d buy a CAE or wait for ZeroPointOne to finish theirs if I did it again. I can’t stand businesses with shitty communication.

08AC4EFC-F30E-4827-9DE1-EE94F7D3B355.jpeg
 


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JDG

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Notice the old dogleg design in mine above. Here is the new version you have to get directly from Coolerworx. It took a lot of following up to finally get them to ship these. Communication is poor. Mine hasn’t broken, but it was absolutely necessary to have the new parts available in the event the shifter breaks during a track weekend. The shifter feels phenomenal but I’d buy a CAE or wait for ZeroPointOne to finish theirs if I did it again. I can’t stand businesses with shitty communication.

View attachment 34598
Are the ball studs the same diameter thread as the old version? Did they explain how this solves the problem? I still can't understand how this would fix the issue...
 


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Notice the old dogleg design in mine above. Here is the new version you have to get directly from Coolerworx. It took a lot of following up to finally get them to ship these. Communication is poor. Mine hasn’t broken, but it was absolutely necessary to have the new parts available in the event the shifter breaks during a track weekend. The shifter feels phenomenal but I’d buy a CAE or wait for ZeroPointOne to finish theirs if I did it again. I can’t stand businesses with shitty communication.

View attachment 34598
That's a shame. I'll be taking my off soon. I love the feel but it's not worth the risk.
 


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