End all be all actuator replacement thread (clicking sound, part numbers, video install)

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Have you tried manually operating the flap, like with a flat head, to determine noise? The rotating pieces of the flap are plastic on plastic so they shouldn't create a grinding noise...
No this is a very loud and interference based plastic grinding noise. I’m stumped on why it is, not what it is.
 


PCoda

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Hi everyone,

Is it necessary to check these before fitting the Air Distribution/Blend Mode Door Actuator or can we fit it by setting the controls to something specific to get them to align?

Screenshot 2025-09-14 135807.png

There is a video here as well about it here but he only checks 1 position and uses the controls as well so its not quite clear.

Ideally, none are required and I can just move the large gear until the old one fits but I'm not sure if this skipping of gears (clicking) has put the positions out of whack

Thanks
 


Cneu

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Lol son of a bitch. I just replaced both the driver and passenger actuators cuz mine had been clicking and I recently lost hot air. So I figured it was probably the driver one.

Welp, they all work and I still don't have hot air. I can see all 3 working, going through their cycles when I tell em to but no hot air.

How hard is the heater core in this fiesta? lol

Also I believe we can get to the heater actuator(the middle one) by removing the glove box and then the two pieces of ducting for your passenger foot vent. It's a VERY tight cramped space but i do believe it's possible to get to without removing everything. I have convenient lil short bits/tools that can get in there. No way you can do it with full size tools.

I don't know if this is helpful but here are 2 short 30 second videos showing what all 3 actuators do and how I think we can get that thing out without removing the dash. Thankfully I don't have to do that so I won't follow up on this. https://pics.chadneu.com/s/actuatemyasss <--videos

I will say these "Super Threads" need cleaned up. A mod needs to come through and remove a lot of the "conflicting" conversation cuz it gets pretty confusing. People say one thing and are mistaken but it never gets corrected, so unless someone reads every single post in these threads it can be pretty easy to get false information. Another good example would be the headlight/taillight thread. That shit is confusing.


edit: lol i was low on coolant. heater problem fixed. Well, at least my actuators got replaced. Now where'd that coolant go? Guess I'll be checking plugs when I do my oil this week.
 


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I just wanted to pass on something which may help the mode door hvac actuator last longer. That's the one that controls where the airflow goes: to the windshield, to your face or to the floor, and it is somewhere behind or near the steering column. The suggestion comes from my mechanic friend who just replaced mine for the second time.
His suggestion is to have the air flow set to floor before you turn the system off. He said that's a neutral position and that's the easiest position for the motor to hold the door in. If you turn it off with the air flow or mode going to the windshield, he said that seems to put more strain on the motor trying to hold it in that upper position while the system is off.
He's not positive this will work but it's worth a try and is easy enough to do, and he's a great mechanic and quite a smart guy.
 


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Intuit

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About fifteen minutes after ignition off, you'll hear the HVAC system set your blend door(s). Bottom line, I don't think it will make a difference what mode it is left in at shutdown. Get the Doorman brand if you can still find them.

Experiences with a manual blend door system say they'll experience the most resistance with the windows down at highway speeds due to the highly uneven pressures inside vs outside the vehicle. In auto mode, it will constantly be making minor adjustments. From the sounds of it, the stock servo also struggles in frigid weather at cold start.

Despite using mine very conservatively and it not being driven much, it didn't take long for it to fail anyway. The takeaway is, just use it normally and don't worry about it. The apparent defect is with the potentiometer type track that is used to determine servo position. Been fine since the Dorman part install. Just triple check that the part is FULLY seated. If not, the gear will eventually pop out of its socket. (just pop it back in) Also, do not bother preemptively replacing the other two blend door motor locations on the passenger side. They seem to do fine; low failure rates.
 




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