Negative Corrections and Positive OAR under heavy loads

[Mibag]

Hello Fiesta ST Forum

I am having some issues currently and I am hoping someone can help me track down the culprit.
I am getting some gnarly Negative Corrections across all cylinders, and my OAR spikes when trying to go WOT.

Some back story here as I believe it matters Highly.
My Fiesta is a 2014 with 67k on the ODO. It was running fine but then I went to get a Turbo installed (Whoosh Hybrid), with an Airtec Manifold and Whoosh 3” Catted DP.
When uninstalling the stock manifold, the shop found a broken manifold stud. They attempted to drill it out but ultimately hit a cooling jacked in the head. They owned up and replaced the head in full along with doing a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner from ford (The entire whoosh timing job kit).
I flashed on my new tune from Tune+ once the car was back together and bolted up.
I am getting a jumpy idle and misfires.
Under heavier load, I am getting negative corrections across all cylinders, and my OAR is jumping to +1 almost instantly.
Adam advised checking the plugs to ensure they weren’t over-torqued. I Checked them (Ruthenium) and after seeing no issues, I reinstalled and torqued to spec. This did not fix the issue.
I ran my tank to empty to double check gas as that was the next thing Adam asked to make sure I didn’t have a blonde moment at the pump. I did a 93 with a gallon and a half of Ethanol just in case the prior tank was just dog water.
Issue still persisted.
I then switched to iridium plugs just in case there was an issue, but same exact thing.

Here is a paste bin to my current mod list…
https://pastebin.com/KjAH8wB0

I am getting no Knock Readings currently according to my AP and AFR looks okay as far as I can tell.
Now I am left chasing the issue and I need some help / guidance from the community to help me track this issue down so I can put down my damn power already!

I appreciate anyone’s help in advance.

 

[Mibag]

Adding on :
It does try to bog down while idling but shoots back up.
On startup it jumps to 1500 and slowly rises to 2-2500 rpm.
Misfires are at cold start mainly but level out or stop all together when warm.
The OAR does creep back down if I cruise at about 3k rpm and the boost is highly audible.
I do get positive corrections of +1 right before going WOT or close to.
I am back on the Ruthenium plugs as there was no change with the iridiums.

If someone needs a log to help, just let me know what to grab and I will get it!

 

[Mibag]

OH AND ONE MORE THING

There is NO CEL except for the high flow cat just throwing an emissions p0420 code.

 

[dhminer]

I’m no expert but it almost sounds like the timing is off. Hopefully some of the pros will chime in

 

[Mibag]

I’m no expert but it almost sounds like the timing is off. Hopefully some of the pros will chime in

i hope they do too.
I see issues like this in the search, but no one ever reports back on the final fix in detail.
I plan on changing that if I can get to the bottom of it.
My mechanic did say he locked everything up when doing timing, but I have also seen people say the timing job is finicky on these overall.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

What are the Vct-i Actual and Vct-e actual reading at idle on the Cob AP3 after the car has warmed up? They should be at almost ZERO with a slight variation. Post what your reading are with a screenshot of the Cobb ap3 when you can.

 

[Mibag]

What are the Vct-i Actual and Vct-e actual reading at idle on the Cob AP3 after the car has warmed up? They should be at almost ZERO with a slight variation. Post what your reading are with a screenshot of the Cobb ap3 when you can.

2 screenshots for you.
1 is after a short drive with only a bit or higher acceleration.
1 is after turning the car off for 5 minutes and starting back up after warm.

No clue what these parameters are without looking yet but context clues are leading me to you agreeing with bad timing?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

2 screenshots for you.
1 is after a short drive with only a bit or higher acceleration.
1 is after turning the car off for 5 minutes and starting back up after warm.

No clue what these parameters are without looking yet but context clues are leading me to you agreeing with bad timing?

Timing is OFF* It should read at pretty much Zero or -ZERO between them two at idle when warm with a slight variation between the two.

 

[Mibag]

Timing is OFF* It should read at pretty much Zero or -ZERO between them two at idle when warm with a slight variation between the two.

Welp, looks like it’s back to the shop.
I will follow up after as well.

 

[dhminer]

Hell yeah I might have been right for once lol. Let us know what happens

 

[Mibag]

Hell yeah I might have been right for once lol. Let us know what happens

Haha will do!