Really Should Stop Modifying my Daily Driver into a Track Car

[Dialcaliper]

I thought about tenders and I have some, but the amount the spring bends at ride height has always bothered me.

With the spring rates mentioned above I only have to buy one set instead of two. HAHA. I have a bunch of 250s here, but after riding with the 650/700s the car is so nice to drive. Have you ever had any concerns about your rear spring combo popping out under droop or some weird driveway/parking lot transition? I am currently running a rear droop strap to contain my 6in springs.

I ended up using a 7” main spring with “long” 5” tenders with a 50lb rate. They’re compressed 1.5-2” at full droop, and don’t gap at the spring coupler. I keep zip ties on them anyway - perches are about a 1/4” from fully bottomed, so it’s set up for maximum spring travel - my rear shocks have 3/4” extra travel in both compression (shorter bumpstop) and droop (longer extension) compared to the stock shocks.

I didn’t like the way the zero rate tenders handled big bumps - like a broken mattress in the back. They also felt squirrelly in the back when they unloaded. The 100lb tenders had the opposite problem - too much preload and the rear end would “launch” off of bumps. Switched them out for the 50lb tenders and it feels good - 75-100lbs of preload at full droop seems to be a sweet spot for keeping the springs seated and minimizing the transition lifting a rear wheel especially on rough roads.

Attached photos of the spring fully extended during install (with the old 225lb springs) and also at ride height, where you can see the main spring sits pretty straight and the tender takes up the angular misalignment. Don’t have a picture at droop for some reason.

The spring rubber is there (only on the left side) to even out frequencies between left and right as my corner weights are slightly heavier on the left with me in the car. Helps cancel out the lateral “sway bar wobble” you get going over a bump.

 

[dhminer]

What is this two spring sorcery

 

[Fusion Works]

That looks sketchy. I get it on a coil over setup, I have them in the front currently on the 650lb springs. I was running a 8in standard spring and that worked pretty well in the rear of the car. That was with a stock height beam (which may go back in for a while, unless I cut the stock beam that came in the car, HAHA)

Feel like you need a steel cable between that to keep it from popping out.

 

[Fusion Works]

Just got these in. Hope to get them swapped this week. They better be an upgrade. I currently have the poly inserts on both sides. The car is awful when the AC is on. Wish the ECU would idle the engine up a couple of hundred RPM when the AC is under load and the fan is on.

 

[Fusion Works]

Initial drive home, they are better than my inserted OEM mounts. I won't have a real data point until its blazing hot tomorrow and the AC us running with the fan. That was a solid point of gripe with the old setup. I can also launch it in the morning and see how it moves around.

Debating what to do about my air box. I am debating building a full sized airbox that covers from the mater cylinder to the shock tower to the end of the engine. It can be open and seal against the hood and cowl. Then I could run an open cone type filter with a proper velocity stack. Not sure if I want to just use a transition coupler to the OEM intake tube or build a new intake tube to the turbo inlet. Not sure where the restriction really is from a turbo and power stand point.

 

[Fusion Works]

Don't let your wifey daily the car with the splitter. I also forgot to attach the wire for the transponder and it got ripped off somewhere on the road. I hope I can solder something back to that little stub and fix the wires. This sucks.