What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Phishy]

Finally installed my Double D fogs, look kinda weird(cool) and way brighter than the OEM with Lamin-x.

 

[PlatinumFiST]

Got it for 'free' couple years ago from the BIL. Needed a new battery, brakes, and block back exhaust along with little odds and ends (lights, radio, etc.). All in I'm $750ish into it and couldn't be happier with how it runs.

Crazy thing about it is it has been a Chicago Jeep the entire time and the floorpans are just now starting to rot. I'll get another 3 years at least thanks to rust converter and flex seal [emoji1787]

As far as yours goes, swap in a new pressure sensor and see what that does.

Mopar sensor - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W41GRQ
Oil sensor socket - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR2RY


Fiesta got to sit for one more day before my vacation is over and back to 60 miles daily on her.

Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk

$750 is definitely a steal! That's certainly the major reason I'll keep mine is that there is no rust. None! But with the inflated market I paid a premium for that.

I also did swap sensors a few weeks ago and the issue was the same and actually growing worse over time. The rockers were clattering from what I assume was little to no oil pressure in the lifters and the head, so naturally, I skipped the ever important step of verifying the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge and went straight to swapping in a new oil pump - don't want to do that job again.. now the lifters are quiet but the pressure gauge in the dash drops dead below 1100rpm. I definitely need to check with a mechanical gauge and either throw another sensor at it or find my wiring fault.


Fiesta was a trooper at the autocross and showed me how terrible I really was. Got the course figured out by the end of the day and put down a clean time 2s behind the two Golf Rs and some sort of new Porsche Cayman (not sure which trim but not the GT4 - that thing was brutally fast). I'm hooked on autocross now! Hoping to find more events

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[Overland History]

Finally got around to replacing my cabin filter. It was the original one the car came with wearing in 2016.

Came across this meme randomly and had to share!

 

[METZGER]

My stats from dashcommand.. not sure how accurate they are.. the fuel cost won't be correct as I haven't added the information yet.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2S using Tapatalk

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Bathed the little Boo berry after the bug slaying I did going to Itasca. But man....look at those veels all dolled up! Absolutely gorgeous!

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

 

[akiraproject24]

After the reminder on here, ordered up one for the focus and one for the fist. Guess you gotta crush it to get it in the fist. Focus I did 2 years back and wasn't too bad. T storm coming in. This weekend will be shift boot, reverse lockout, base bushings and cabin filter. Possibly center console if I can get it on clean and tight.

 

[Intuit]

@Jabbit & @TyphoonFiST - I'll go for the ATP. Haven't heard of them before now. I always check local before buying online and nada. So will do RockAuto unless shipping makes up for the Amazon difference in price. Thanks!
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...otive-car-2016-ford-fiesta?q=cabin+air+filter

@Overland History - Insured or not, I try not to drive anything I don't want to afford to wreck LoL...

EDIT: On second thought, went with the lower priced option based on layer 3...

 

[flbchbm]

After the reminder on here, ordered up one for the focus and one for the fist. Guess you gotta crush it to get it in the fist. Focus I did 2 years back and wasn't too bad. T storm coming in. This weekend will be shift boot, reverse lockout, base bushings and cabin filter. Possibly center console if I can get it on clean and tight.

Yeah, it's a pain. But to me, the worst is my Mazduh 5. TWO pieces, plastic framed, one goes in and lift it up, then slide the next one in. It is VERY similar to the FiST in location and cover plate, but harder to access. I know sounds crazy, but I'd rather change two on the FiST than one on the mazda. The easiest? 2013 Avenger, drop the glove box down, lift one clip, pivot forward and slide it out!

 

[LiLfieSTa]

TLDR;
Had to replace my battery today. Replaced. everything smooth. Now im playing catchup at work.

So its my birthday. Figured i tried to get to work earlier since i had birthday dinner plans and wanted to get out early. Well that all shot to poop.
I somehow was able to get 1 last remote unlock before the car completely died. I get in, push the button and nothing came on, no dash lights, no initial clicks, I press the horn, Tried disconnecting for 10 mins, the whole 9 yards and NADA.

The car has been perfectly fine and was out running errands yesterday and it even started perfectly, i dont leave anything plugged.
Ive experienced weak battery problems, but nothing like this? Can it just... die like that? Is there something that our little bean do at night when we're sleeping?
It was an interstate battery from Costco and had it for a little over 3 years. ended up replacing it with a Duralast Gold
Also, i know nothing about batteries, but ive seen AGM mentioned on that topic. Curious to know if theres a "better" battery alternative, preferably something that fits OE

 

[Ford ST]

Yeah, it's a pain. But to me, the worst is my Mazduh 5. TWO pieces, plastic framed, one goes in and lift it up, then slide the next one in. It is VERY similar to the FiST in location and cover plate, but harder to access. I know sounds crazy, but I'd rather change two on the FiST than one on the mazda. The easiest? 2013 Avenger, drop the glove box down, lift one clip, pivot forward and slide it out!

I fully understand I have a 2011 Mazda 3. I hate that two-piece filter. Hyundai makes their cabin air filters very easy to change right behind the glove box.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[Old Mike Emerson]

I drooled over pictures of mine.

 

[Intuit]

.............. Also, i know nothing about batteries, but ive seen AGM mentioned on that topic. Curious to know if theres a "better" battery alternative, preferably something that fits OE

I don't know that they last any longer or are more durable but for sure they are CLEAN. They're not going to puke all over the inside of your car and rot away your terminals at an accelerated pace. Even if they're slightly less durable, that makes it worthwhile for me personally. That OEM Motorcraft was awful dirty.

Batteries can remain weak for quite some time and just not be noticed. I'll sometimes hear a nearby car crank and *know* that's a weak battery. Thats what tips me off is a weak crank. So pay special attention to the speed of that *initial* turn over of the engine. Sometimes it's just dirty terminals but most of the time it's the battery. I did have one battery fail in a rather unusual way; it had plenty of cranking amps, but *no* capacity. So running the hazard lights for a few minutes, or the car radio, would literally kill it and I'd require a jump.

 

[Phishy]

TLDR;
Had to replace my battery today. Replaced. everything smooth. Now im playing catchup at work.

So its my birthday. Figured i tried to get to work earlier since i had birthday dinner plans and wanted to get out early. Well that all shot to poop.
I somehow was able to get 1 last remote unlock before the car completely died. I get in, push the button and nothing came on, no dash lights, no initial clicks, I press the horn, Tried disconnecting for 10 mins, the whole 9 yards and NADA.

The car has been perfectly fine and was out running errands yesterday and it even started perfectly, i dont leave anything plugged.
Ive experienced weak battery problems, but nothing like this? Can it just... die like that? Is there something that our little bean do at night when we're sleeping?
It was an interstate battery from Costco and had it for a little over 3 years. ended up replacing it with a Duralast Gold
Also, i know nothing about batteries, but ive seen AGM mentioned on that topic. Curious to know if theres a "better" battery alternative, preferably something that fits OE

Dude that blows. Wish I could offer some help. I have had zero issues but am still on my original 45k mile 2017 battery so figure I will need to address it fairly soon. Remove and reinstall is all the advice I can offer. Once in a great while you do just get a crap new battery, if you can get a tester I would check it out.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I don't know that they last any longer or are more durable but for sure they are CLEAN. They're not going to puke all over the inside of your car and rot away your terminals at an accelerated pace. Even if they're slightly less durable, that makes it worthwhile for me personally. That OEM Motorcraft was awful dirty.

Batteries can remain weak for quite some time and just not be noticed. I'll sometimes hear a nearby car crank and *know* that's a weak battery. Thats what tips me off is a weak crank. So pay special attention to the speed of that *initial* turn over of the engine. Sometimes it's just dirty terminals but most of the time it's the battery. I did have one battery fail in a rather unusual way; it had plenty of cranking amps, but *no* capacity. So running the hazard lights for a few minutes, or the car radio, would literally kill it and I'd require a jump.

Yeah, of course a battery, especially a flooded lead acid one, is not going to pick a convenient time and place to completely DIE on you.

That's why I am beginning to think the whole replace them every 3 years thing that others on here have mentioned is a really smart move, even if you don't 'max out' the battery's useful life.

 

[Ford ST]

Yeah, of course a battery, especially a flooded lead acid one, is not going to pick a convenient time and place to completely DIE on you.

That's why I am beginning to think the whole replace them every 3 years thing that others on here have mentioned is a really smart move, even if you don't 'max out' the battery's useful life.

Just buy a portable battery jump starter they work really well. I hate spending money and making waste. The battery in my Dad's Hyundai sonata is 7 years old with about 115,000 miles on it. AGM from the factory.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[LiLfieSTa]

I don't know that they last any longer or are more durable but for sure they are CLEAN. They're not going to puke all over the inside of your car and rot away your terminals at an accelerated pace. Even if they're slightly less durable, that makes it worthwhile for me personally. That OEM Motorcraft was awful dirty.

ah thank you for that info! gonna read up on some more for the next one

Dude that blows. Wish I could offer some help. I have had zero issues but am still on my original 45k mile 2017 battery so figure I will need to address it fairly soon. Remove and reinstall is all the advice I can offer. Once in a great while you do just get a crap new battery, if you can get a tester I would check it out.

60k and 3rd battery for me, yikes.

Yeah, of course a battery, especially a flooded lead acid one, is not going to pick a convenient time and place to completely DIE on you.

That's why I am beginning to think the whole replace them every 3 years thing that others on here have mentioned is a really smart move.

I think ill be replacing every 3 yrs too lol thats a good peace of mind.

 

[Intuit]

Yeah, of course a battery, especially a flooded lead acid one, is not going to pick a convenient time and place to completely DIE on you.

That's why I am beginning to think the whole replace them every 3 years thing that others on here have mentioned is a really smart move, even if you don't 'max out' the battery's useful life.

This reads rather quickly; has a high refresh rate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085LKLCYX/
Result is, you can watch the voltage during engine crank; should remain above 10v. (as well as look at resting voltage before the car starts) The downside is the FRONT outlet for the 2016 year remains active at all times so I can't just leave it plugged in all the time. It would be nice to have this tied in with the accessory delay relay; presumably activates for a period with door unlock or other activity; like the rear outlet. Would be trivial to relay the operation of the front outlet, off of the activation of the rear, it's just taking a few hours time to do it.

 

[Intuit]

Just buy a portable battery jump starter they work really well. I hate spending money and making waste. The battery in my Dad's Hyundai sonata is 7 years old with about 115,000 miles on it. AGM from the factory.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

I have one of these too and have used it several times for other folks. Personally I just don't trust leaving a Li-Ion battery in a car that sees extreme temps. If one does, under the seat (away from the under-seat vent) is the most stable place to have it; temperature wise.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just buy a portable battery jump starter they work really well. I hate spending money and making waste. The battery in my Dad's Hyundai sonata is 7 years old with about 115,000 miles on it. AGM from the factory.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

I wholeheartedly agree with the hating waste thing.

And yes, a jump starter will get you going, and even possibly allow you to save a battery that went dead because of just drain or draw by using in car charging, or an external charger.
But NOT one which is dead due to internal damage/shorting/broken or corroded plates.

 

[Overland History]

One of my favorite things to keep in every vehicle I own, is one of these Element Fire Extinguishers. They're compact, lightweight and pack 4x the punch of a regular 5lb fire extinguisher. I also got the optional magnetic mounting clip with the perfect mounting spot in mind!



As you can see, I've got the essentials(minus my 1st Aid Kit not pictured) including small air compressor, ARB metal-handled tire plug repair kit and now the fire extinguisher!


Oh, and the roll of TP. But we all know that's for potential emergencies too. Though, I gave up Taco Bell years ago so life is much more predictable these days.