Isabella de la fiesta

[Ford ST]

I was doing some reading on the Honda sites. People seem to like havoline 5w30 conventional oil and swear not to use synthetic during break in. I don't know the correct answer.

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[eq5]

Alright guys, I need your help. I'm looking at break in oils right now and I'm looking at motul's 10w40 break in mineral oil, running engine ice for coolant (buying 2 gallons) and after the break in running motul's 8100 x-cess 5w-40. Do you guys see any issues with this?

My suggestion for break-in is to spend a few more $ on extra oil changes:

- mineral oil, run the engine until it is up to operating temperature, change the oil/filter. This is basically like a first flush, engine internals have their first cycles and you don't want that dirt to be staying in there for long. You will notice that the oil will look really dirty as well.
- mineral oil, break-in for first hour of driving. There are lots of theories out there, but I have used moderate loads, not spooling the turbo too much, not going over 3k RPM. However I try to choose a twisty road to drive on to give the piston rings dynamic load and changing RPM. Change the oil/filter again.
This is for achieving a good seal between the piston ring and the cylinder wall. The exact mileages however should be given by Mountune, as it is highly affected by the cylinder wall hone pattern.
- mineral oil, break in for another 3 hours on alternating moderate loads. Although the piston rings should already be set after the first hour, the extra 3 hours on it won't do any harm and gives myself more confidence that I have proper seal and not dependancy on the work of the hone guy. Change oil/filter.
- synthetic oil. Dyno mapping. As this is the first time the engine will get proper loads, I will also change the oil/filter afterwards.
- synthetic oil and you are ready to hit the track.

I choose to make the oil changes really frequent as debris is one of the main reasons for engine failures and the oil changes are really not that expensive compared to the cost of the engine and dyno.

 

[Rocketst]

I'm starting to pre stage things for the motor getting here thursday. The x57 has 2 lines that come with it. After much confusion I think these lines replace the hard lines the fiesta came with... Am I right or wrong. The only part I'm very confused about is that one line goes front one goes back so it's not the same as the fiesta came with. There's also an extra bolt hole.

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[eq5]

I'm starting to pre stage things for the motor getting here thursday. The x57 has 2 lines that come with it. After much confusion I think these lines replace the hard lines the fiesta came with... Am I right or wrong. The only part I'm very confused about is that one line goes front one goes back so it's not the same as the fiesta came with. There's also an extra bolt hole.

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The in and out should have an angle in relation to each other, the water-in port on the lower side and water-out on higher.

 

[Rocketst]

The in and out should have an angle in relation to each other, the water-in port on the lower side and water-out on higher.
View attachment 26110

Thanks man.

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[Rocketst]

Gonna be installing these ss arp fasteners on the manifold to turbo and the turbo to downpipe with nickel anti seize

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[lowda9]

So to get the front bumper off you must take off 2 15mm bolts off the windshield wiper blades, take blades off, remove upper cowl. After that, remove the 4 tq 25 bolts and the 2 trim screws from the headlights. Then you remove lower cowl by removing 4 10mm bolts from the holes my fingers point to. 2 for each side. Make sure to disconnect the line attached to the lower cowl. Get into the wheel well (it helps to turn your tires depending on what side your on) remove the 2 tq 25 bolts, 1 7mm bolt and trim screw from each wheel well. Time to remove the front bumper. There are 7 and 8mm bolts under the bumper. Those remove the skid plate? Not sure what to call it. You can remove it all as one piece but I find it much easier to seperate them before reinstall. Remove the 6 8mm bolts from the fenders (3 on each side). The top 2 can be removed with a 12 in wobble extension and a standard socket. The bottom has to be removed with a wrench. Remove the 2 8mm bolts holding up the intercooler and disconnect hoses. More will be coming soon.

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You don't have to remove the cowl to take the bumper off....

 

[eq5]

Gonna be installing these ss arp fasteners on the manifold to turbo and the turbo to downpipe with nickel anti seize

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Would you happen to have the ARP product code?

 

[Rocketst]

Would you happen to have the ARP product code?

I don't have the product code but whoosh sells them. https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif.../arp-downpipe-stud-and-nut-kit-fiesta-st-2014

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[Rocketst]

They are advertised as studs that are for turbo to downpipe but they fit in both locations perfectly fine.

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[lowda9]

you don't have to remove the cowl to remove the headlights...

 

[Rocketst]

you don't have to remove the cowl to remove the headlights...

Your right. Headlights need to be removed to remove cowl.

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[Rocketst]

you don't have to remove the cowl to remove the headlights...

I started this thread off with the goal of removing the motor which was stated within the first few posts. I may have misstated that you need to remove cowl to remove bumper but what I should have said was you need to remove cowl to remove motor. Either way it could also have been lifted out with exhaust disconnected. But considering I was going to be doing some other stuff I figured it would be easier to get everything out of my way.

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[Rocketst]

So stock banjo is left pumaspeed banjo is right this to me seems like it may be an issue. Look at the difference in the holes... This is for the oil inlet

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[eq5]

So stock banjo is left pumaspeed banjo is right this to me seems like it may be an issue. Look at the difference in the holes... This is for the oil inlet

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Oil restrictors are common for aftermarket turbos if they use ball bearing instead of the journal. But it does not hurt to double check this with Pumaspeed. But you might want to call them, I rarely get any responses over e-mail...

 

[Rocketst]

Oil restrictors are common for aftermarket turbos if they use ball bearing instead of the journal. But it does not hurt to double check this with Pumaspeed. But you might want to call them, I rarely get any responses over e-mail...

So are you saying the stock turbo is not ball bearing and that it needs less oil when it is replaced with a ball bearing turbo?

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[Rocketst]

Pretty sure it's a journal bearing turbo because it contains a thrust bearing. Ball bearing turbos don't need thrust bearings. Source was the Garrett site.

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[Rocketst]

Well crap now I've found another site that says it could be a hybrid turbo that uses both journal and ball bearings which requires the use of a thrust bearing on the non compressor side... I guess I'll have to contact pumaspeed after all.

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[TyphoonFiST]

Nope..... I'm pretty sure this is Journal bearing k04 design just by reading into the spec sheet.

 

[Rocketst]

Nope..... I'm pretty sure this is Journal bearing k04 design just by reading into the spec sheet.

Teach me lol. What makes you think that?

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