Push start issue

[BilabongAthlete]

Hello,

last week I was having issues with the push start. I have to press it twice for the car to start usually I would press down the clutch and press the button and the car would start. I am now having the issue where I press the clutch and the push start button and then I have to press it again and the car will start, I replaced my battery and the key fob battery and I am still having the issue. Has any one had this issue and what resolved it?

 

[albertucsb]

Same issue here - was there a fix? Thanks, Saw you location are you in Brea, CA?

 

[PunkST]

Mine does this but worse. Ive had to essentially power cycle the car a few times to get it to decide to engage the starter. ( all of this has been happeningning since a deer strike) i have a new start button on the way. And the starter has been replaced as of last year.

 

[The_Ryan]

Mine does this but worse. Ive had to essentially power cycle the car a few times to get it to decide to engage the starter. ( all of this has been happeningning since a deer strike) i have a new start button on the way. And the starter has been replaced as of last year.

My guy, with all the trouble that car has given you, how have you not just it into the nether already?

I wish I had a quarter of your patience lol

 

[PunkST]

^ simple. I cant afford a replacement.

 

[SteveS]

Have you read this: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/fiesta-st-not-always-starting-on-the-first-try.21772/

 

[PunkST]

I know my grounds in the engine bay should be good. That was one of the first things i checked and cleaned.

 

[PunkST]

So i replaced start button. No change. Something else is amiss.

 

[Intuit]

Though it wasn't push start, I had a similar, intermittent issue with my prior car. Only happened when it was really frigid outside. It would start working by the time I rolled it into the (warm) garage.

Longer story short, the clutch switch was intermittent. "Voltage drop testing" can be used to identify bad connections. Straight pin or safety pin can be used to pierce wiring to get a reading. In order for the test to be effective, the circuit has to be loaded to its potential.

As always, check for stored codes. The computer may very well be telling you that it detected a fault and won't crank.

EDIT: Rather than throw parts at it, you may be able to temporarily bypass the clutch switch as a test. However, I wouldn't be surprised if this computer is smart enough to throw a code for it, since it does have an upper clutch switch.

@The_Ryan - he has a ton of miles on it already

 

[PunkST]

Nothing pops up on the AP for codes. I could try to bypass the switch and see if it starts normally. outside temp doesnt affect it.

 

[Intuit]

Can also try pumping the clutch pedal. That typically got me to work on time until it got bad to warrant disabling a safety item.

Most if not all bad switches in my experiences are temp-agnostic. Only mentioned because it immediately sends someone in the direction of battery. Before I made the temp connection I immediately thought starter. So it was a roundabout way of getting across the point of "test before replace." I learned not to throw parts at that vehicle because aftermarket parts were absolute junk whereas OEM were generally reliable. Replacing a part (unnecessarily) on that vehicle merely lead to unnecessary headaches down the road.

 

[PunkST]

Been monitoring the switch with the AP. Its definitely sending a signal.

 

[Intuit]

Is that the case during a no-crank situation?

 

[PunkST]

I can find out as soon as it does it again.

 

[PunkST]

So in order to get 100% on the gauge i pretty much have to push the pedal through the floor. Im wondering if something is bent maybe. It will read 100% but only if its smashed down hard i to the carpet.

 

[PunkST]

Ok. Another update. When it does screw up clutch reads 50%. Smash it down harder to get 100% the. It starts. So either something is bent or the switch is jacked.

 

[Intuit]

Even with a seatbelt a person's foot is smashed into whatever it's over during an impact. Your suggestion that it may be bent (as a result of the deer impact) makes sense. Make sure the lower switch's bumper pad is still attached to the clutch pedal. As a test, try putting something thicker over the switch's strike plate. Memory serving, that helped me for a while, but the switch really was bad (in my case) and needed replacing. Voltage drop testing can identify bad connections. Memory serving, anything more than a 6% loss through a connection is excessive. So for example if you measured 12.6v at the switch, but only 11.8 after, that would be a 6% drop and the switch would theoretically be bad. This only applies to connections and switches... not circuits or sensors.

To get voltage drop reading, place one one volt meter test lead on each contact of the switch. A 0.0312v display would be the voltage drop, as an example.