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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

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Ordered a Whoosh induction hose and an AFE dry panel filter for the S200 intake. Almost added a Whoosh crossover pipe to my car but Ill do that on another day. This should complete my S200 intake swap. I went with a red induction hose to add some flare to the engine bay. Ill probably do the same color when I do the crossover pipe later.
 


Dialcaliper

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Rainy weekend project: custom battery tiedown for a braille 21lb battery in the stock location. Could have gone with a lighter battery (this one will supposedly start a big block V8) but I wanted a good compromise between a few pounds lighter and a long-life AGM for a reliable daily driver. Also it’s close to the stock height, so it made the install straightforward in the stock battery tray (which holds up the ECU on the side, so removing/replacing it would be a lot of custom work) Also, my existing 32lb Duracell battery was starting to bite the dust so there was some motivation there.

I got a little carried away with the “speed holes” but I figured there’s no reason to have a lighter battery with a tiedown heavier than stock…
 


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Bull Run

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Got my TB crash bar and COBB downpipe in the mail today. TN surprised me and included all the welded mount points even the one for the DHMS intercooler. Just need to figure out a way to mount it with the MASSIVE BA intercooler coming in a few days.
If you haven't done so already, swapping the crash bar is a great time to also do a radiator upgrade because you'll have plenty of space.
 


Bull Run

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I wasn’t planning on making more, but if you follow the link, I did a full writeup on how to make one yourself and where to get the parts you need. Once you have all the parts, it’s not all that difficult a job, especially if you just use a fuse tap and end crimps rather than wiring a full circuit and solder splices like I did. It’s really just crimping wires and making sure everything is hooked up correctly.
I did some additional research and found a programmable timer relay module that doesn't require an external programmer. It also supports shorting directly to a ground to avoid needing a sink adapter, which further simplifies the wiring.

Details are in https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bulls-daily-driver-build.28005/post-489036. Again, thanks for the writeup as it showed me that button press simulation works and which pin to ground.
Diagram.png
 


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M-Sport fan

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Washed it in the rain yesterday, dried and Collinited it this morning.

The N.J./Pennslytucky DOTs are gonna be dumping their billions of tons of salt onto the roads in the near future, despite there only being ~1" to 3" of snow falling, so I took advantage of the slightly warmer temps to be ready for that.
 


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396
Location
lorton, VA
If you haven't done so already, swapping the crash bar is a great time to also do a radiator upgrade because you'll have plenty of space.
I was looking at doing that at the same time. I just need to get an upgraded radiator first. I'm still waiting on my CPE rear engine mount so I can do the DP at the same time.
 


Dialcaliper

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I did some additional research and found a programmable timer relay module that doesn't require an external programmer. It also supports shorting directly to a ground to avoid needing a sink adapter, which further simplifies the wiring.

Details are in https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bulls-daily-driver-build.28005/post-489036. Again, thanks for the writeup as it showed me that button press simulation works and which pin to ground.
View attachment 53550
Awesome - glad to see someone else trying this out. Good find on the more basic relay - the one I used is a bit overkill due to all the extra functions it can do, but on the flip side, it is quite versatile for other projects. The previous version didn’t need the programmer, but was a pain to program.
 


Dialcaliper

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I’m finally installing my ebc pads today. They look so good!
View attachment 53582 What are these for and are they necessary?
View attachment 53583
Anti-rattle shims that go on the back of the pads. Not strictly necessary but they’re supposed to reduce rattle and squeal as long as you install them properly (aka brake grease on the outside of the shim but do not grease between shim and pad or it will a) not work to reduce noise and b) depending on pad design the shim will slip out partway and at best make you brakes squeal more.
 


FiestaSTdude

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Anti-rattle shims that go on the back of the pads. Not strictly necessary but they’re supposed to reduce rattle and squeal as long as you install them properly (aka brake grease on the outside of the shim but do not grease between shim and pad or it will a) not work to reduce noise and b) depending on pad design the shim will slip out partway and at best make you brakes squeal more.
Thanks, they are on my car now. Today I finally got around to changing my transmission fluid and using the Ravenol 75w-80 I bought in the spring. The ravenol definitely improved the feel of shifting and smoothed things out in the gearbox. I highly recommend it.
 


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Messages
162
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396
Location
lorton, VA
Ford was very fast at shipping my rubber isolator for my ST200 intake. Just waiting on my Whoosh induction hose then I can install the ST200 intake. I might be cleaning up the KN panel filter and posting it for sale. I prefer dry filters since they can be easily cleaned with simple green.
 




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