What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[WolfDampf]

I think hitting the washer with a hammer would defeat the purpose of a washer designed to deform to fit the surfaces of the parts being joined. Instead you'd have a washer conformed to the hammer.

That's my thoughts too, never heard of hammering it

 

[Stubborn Approach]

The banjo is installed with a new washer. You tighten the banjo until the washer feels crushed & wont turn anymore. Tap the banjo head with a hammer & the banjo will tighten a little more, creating a solid seal.

 

[sczamun]

No....

I wasn't aware that was something that needed to be done. I followed this: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...eel-braided-brake-hoses-install-review.25513/

If there's a better how-to I'm all ears, this is the first time I've ever done brakes so...

I have doubts that is the case. If you changed the fluid with the correct type and you are confident that you have all the air out of the lines, its probably the master cylinder.

 

[SteveS]

The banjo is installed with a new washer. You tighten the banjo until the washer feels crushed & wont turn anymore. Tap the banjo head with a hammer & the banjo will tighten a little more, creating a solid seal.

If you're going to do that, you then have to retorque the bolt. It's entirely unnecessary even if it was an "old mechanic's trick"

 

[Stubborn Approach]

If you're going to do that, you then have to retorque the bolt. It's entirely unnecessary even if it was an "old mechanic's trick"

Nowhere in my instructions did I mention torquing the bolt & then doing this. It’s not a trick. It’s an order of operations.

 

[SteveS]

Nowhere in my instructions did I mention torquing the bolt & then doing this. It’s not a trick. It’s an order of operations.

I took the liberty of looking up hitting the crush washer for a banjo bolt with a hammer and found instructions for doing that. It said it was an old mechanic's trick to tighten the banjo bolt, then tap the bolt with a hammer, and then retorque the bolt to prevent leaks.

That said, although I have never had a printed shop manual for the modern Fiesta, I had one for my 1978 Fiesta, I have one for my 1994 Miata, and I had one for my 1970 F100. And I did brakes on all those cars. None of the manuals said to hit the bolt with a hammer.

My search revealed these instructions, which put optionally tapping the bolt after initial torquing.

Key Procedures for Tightening Banjo Bolts:

• Use New Washers: Always replace copper or steel crush washers to ensure a proper seal.
• Check Fitting: Ensure the washer is placed on both sides of the banjo fitting (between the bolt head and fitting, and fitting and component).
• Hand Tighten First: Thread the bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Torque Specification: Tighten to the manufacturer's spec. For many automotive brake applications, this is around
  25−3025 minus 30
  ft-lbs. Specific recommendations include
  96−12096 minus 120
  in-lbs (do not exceed 144 in-lbs) or
  5−85 minus 8
  ft-lbs for some specialized applications.
• The "Tap" Trick: After snugging the bolt, a light tap with a hammer on the hex head can help properly seat the crush washer for a better seal.
• Inspect for Leaks: Check for leaks after the initial installation. Over-tightening can break the bolt, so it is better to tighten gradually.
• Bleed the System: If the bolt is part of a hydraulic system (brakes/clutch), bleed the system afterward to remove any air introduced during the process.

 

[limapalon]

And so, another oil change has come and gone. Waited until the cold snap left Florida to pull this one off. Also went big filter. Turns out my buddy with a Crown Vic bought an extra FL400s and just gave it to me.

But while priming the engine I nearly killed the battery again, so time to use that tender I bought again, left it on the juice for 10 hours - charger said it was charged by the time I woke up at night to go to work.

I guess it's time to start budgeting a new battery. This one is from 2021 and it's obvious that it's on borrowed time.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^How many miles on it?

That Restore & Protect might be unnecessary for any engine with < 60K miles on it (unless it lived it's whole life up till then with cold starts and short tripping in cold weather, or all stop and go traffic jams), even though it would not 'hurt' anything.

 

[limapalon]

^^^How many miles on it?

That Restore & Protect might be unnecessary for any engine with < 60K miles on it (unless it lived it's whole life up till then with cold starts and short tripping in cold weather, or all stop and go traffic jams), even though it would not 'hurt' anything.

Its got like 75k miles on it. Picked it up with 66/62K (Can't really remember, I'm probably mixing it up with the mileage I picked up my Civic LX that preceded this car). The odometer is in KM since I swapped to a Canada metric cluster and it jumped forward like 1,800 km since the new cluster was from an older car than mine with a slightly higher readout. Last I checked the odo it claims about 125,380-something kms on it.

This car also has a lot of deferred maintenance on it, so that's why I went with the Valvoline oil - in the "not a year" I've owned it I've flushed and swapped the coolant, done engine mounts, brake fluid, and a clutch master cylinder along with a lot of use of Liqui Moly Direct Injection cleaner. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[Zeille]

not "today", but the last 3 days.
put the old turbo back in. extracted two broken exhaust manifold studs. fixed my exhaust leak. cleaned the valves as best as i could. replaced the idler pulley since it was bad. found glitter in the bottom of all my oil i drained, so maybe the car is cooked. lots of miserable work, many cuts, many curse words. and i'm not even done with this car, which sucks too. i have to replace some broken/bad connectors, do some other maintenance items/big-ish items (namely cam bucket). i will post pictures once i have them from my mom's boyfriend's close friend whose shop my car was at all 3 days. i didn't snap pictures of the boroscope screen from dirty vs clean valves, but i will soon.

my midpipe does not line up with the downpipe very well or at all. i have a whoosh rmm, whoosh v1 catless dp, and whoosh poly exhaust hangers, but i have to put SO much tension/torque on the turbo and the downpipe to get this midpipe on it evenly, and it's a problem. i have no idea why that is. can the rmm let the car sag? do i need to replace motor mounts?

 

[killer5280]

Driving home the other day I noticed I had no boost. The engine was running fine, but no boost. Hoping that it was something simple I jacked up the car and started looking around and found that the hot side intercooler hose had come loose, so I put it back on, tightened up the clamp and everything was just fine.
190,000 miles and still humming along. I keep scouring eBay looking for replacement engines for when the time comes, but now is not the time.
Just curious. What is the highest mileage anyone has heard of for one of these engines?