What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

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Isn't there 3 bolts for the tray? Or do you have an aftermarket tray?
Aftermarket tray, It's for the AWR 88A mount. And it is toast. One bolt was missing and it was sliding around like crazy. Wasn't moving like this before the event when I did my checks. Not the worst outcome, but it was absolutely sliding around and with the short shifter it was within reach easily to bump it from 2nd to neutral during hard left hand turn braking. I contacted AWR to see if they carry extras I can order. Though I'm sort of just tempted to relocate the battery to the back now.


IMG_20260423_162509827_HDR_AE.jpg IMG_20260423_163336849_HDR_AE.jpg
 


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Aftermarket tray, It's for the AWR 88A mount. And it is toast. One bolt was missing and it was sliding around like crazy. Wasn't moving like this before the event when I did my checks. Not the worst outcome, but it was absolutely sliding around and with the short shifter it was within reach easily to bump it from 2nd to neutral during hard left hand turn braking. I contacted AWR to see if they carry extras I can order. Though I'm sort of just tempted to relocate the battery to the back now.


View attachment 69862 View attachment 69863
Well shit not what I expected, how are the threads on the mount? I'm sure you can grab a bolt and washer from ACE if AWR doesn't come through...
 


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Well shit not what I expected, how are the threads on the mount? I'm sure you can grab a bolt and washer from ACE if AWR doesn't come through...
I took some extra hardware and bolted it back together for daily driving. It doesn't move anymore, but there is a lot of weight sitting on that bracket with only 2 bolts holding it to the mount. It holds the battery, all the wire harness and the whoosh intake. So I'm not surprised it had eventually failed.
 


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I took some extra hardware and bolted it back together for daily driving. It doesn't move anymore, but there is a lot of weight sitting on that bracket with only 2 bolts holding it to the mount. It holds the battery, all the wire harness and the whoosh intake. So I'm not surprised it had eventually failed.
I guess it's time to upgrade to a lighter battery lol, but you are right they have a bunch of shit bolted to that mount
 


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Tried a few different spots for my boost and ethanol content gauge. Kinda like the one with it setup in front of the cluster. I've also got a SVE double mount on the way I'm going to try out.

Gauge 1.jpg Gauge 2.jpg
Wires would go behind the cluster on this one, I just was doing fitment feel.
Gauge 3.jpg
 


XanRules

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Finally got the backup camera installed. The first time I did it, I accidentally snapped the connector off the RCA cable being too aggressive feeding the wiring through. Thought I'd be able to solder it back together but couldn't make it work, so I just ordered a new one.

I've also made some significant progress on soundproofing the car. The most troublesome spots have very high-quality sound deadening (Resonix CLD) and the other odds and ends have NVX sound deadening. The CLD is like $12.50 per square foot and I couldn't justify the expense of full coverage, but the NVX is $2.50 per square foot so other, less troublesome spots are being treated with that. I've got the two front doors totally treated - the passenger door, however, is inoperable due to my not understanding how the door is assembled and the factory service manual not explaining it, so I'm waiting for some parts to arrive to fix that up. Once I have the passenger door fixed, I will do the rear, then finish pulling the interior and laying the rest of the sound deadening down, followed by some actual sound proofing (Resonix Fiber Mat). The front doors are both done with CLD/NVX, then the factory "soundproofing" foam in the inner door card has been replaced with the Fiber Mat, and there is a very noticeable difference already.

This is another one of those projects that started out small and then kept turning into a "while I'm in there..." project, but the road noise from the trunk/hatch area was getting to the point that I was getting mild headaches on long road trips and I just wanted it over and done with. Rip the whole interior out once and never worry about it again.

I typed all this out before realizing I hadn't taken any photos. Oh well.
 


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I finally got around to installing my Whoosh hiflo hot side intercooler pipe.
Piece of cake install, can't really notice any difference in sound or performance.
I wasn't expecting much anyways. I just like working on my car on my days off so mission accomplished.
 


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A bit of news, AWR is warrantying my whole mount and they have a new design they are sending out. This one looks to have the bolts on the side for the bracket instead of under the battery itself which would be a much better design with the forces on the battery for events.

That also means that community needs an update as all mounts online I've seen have the mounting points up top so we might have two versions on the market with stock on 3rd party vendors. Picture is how the new one is. I'll post pictures of the whole thing when it gets here.
1777486315964.png
 


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A bit of news, AWR is warrantying my whole mount and they have a new design they are sending out. This one looks to have the bolts on the side for the bracket instead of under the battery itself which would be a much better design with the forces on the battery for events.

That also means that community needs an update as all mounts online I've seen have the mounting points up top so we might have two versions on the market with stock on 3rd party vendors. Picture is how the new one is. I'll post pictures of the whole thing when it gets here.
View attachment 69888
That's awesome of AWR, I wonder if that was a common complaint of the original design...
 


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Finally got the backup camera installed. The first time I did it, I accidentally snapped the connector off the RCA cable being too aggressive feeding the wiring through. Thought I'd be able to solder it back together but couldn't make it work, so I just ordered a new one.

I've also made some significant progress on soundproofing the car. The most troublesome spots have very high-quality sound deadening (Resonix CLD) and the other odds and ends have NVX sound deadening. The CLD is like $12.50 per square foot and I couldn't justify the expense of full coverage, but the NVX is $2.50 per square foot so other, less troublesome spots are being treated with that. I've got the two front doors totally treated - the passenger door, however, is inoperable due to my not understanding how the door is assembled and the factory service manual not explaining it, so I'm waiting for some parts to arrive to fix that up. Once I have the passenger door fixed, I will do the rear, then finish pulling the interior and laying the rest of the sound deadening down, followed by some actual sound proofing (Resonix Fiber Mat). The front doors are both done with CLD/NVX, then the factory "soundproofing" foam in the inner door card has been replaced with the Fiber Mat, and there is a very noticeable difference already.

This is another one of those projects that started out small and then kept turning into a "while I'm in there..." project, but the road noise from the trunk/hatch area was getting to the point that I was getting mild headaches on long road trips and I just wanted it over and done with. Rip the whole interior out once and never worry about it again.

I typed all this out before realizing I hadn't taken any photos. Oh well.
Also if you ever want to do this project yourself - do NOT attempt to take off the inner door skin. Just put soundproofing in through the speaker hole as best you can.

The inner door skin is held on by, if memory serves, fourteen 8mm bolts. You will then notice that you cannot get the door skin out. This is because it is also wedged into the metal part of the door frame and held in with a half-dozen other sliding clips which are housed in a flimsy plastic bracket which is attached to the exterior part of the door. In order to remove this without breaking anything, you need to remove the exterior door handle, the lock cylinder, the door latch/lock mechanism, and the entire fucking window.

Between this, the cabin air filter, and getting to the back of the engine to change the bypass valve, I hope whoever designed this car is in Hell.
 


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Paid all my new-turbo money to shop to replace clutch and slave cylinder. Had to pay double labor (and two slave cylinders) because the first one (OEM Ford unit) failed spectacularly and bled out all over the bellhousing so shop had to redo the work. Mechanic certainly ate good that day.
 


XanRules

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Speaking of hell, guess who's got a kink in their neck and two functional blend door actuators!
mine are still going strong, knock on wood.

Given that the interior is already almost entirely stripped out of the car right now, it might be the time to just get in and do them, but I'm already very backed up with "While I'm in there..." type stuff on this project.
 




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