What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Dialcaliper]

Where did you source the calipers? I've been wondering if the 986 would fit like the megane, I'm glad to see they do cause the Renault are getting hard to find...

Looks like the Renault calipers are the same 130mm bolt spacing, but it seems like they may protrude out further than the Boxster base calipers - it looks like the Renault used a 28mm rotor - it’s possibly a similar dimension to the Boxster “S” which also uses a thicker 28mm rotor and slightly thicker pad (and longer pistons), all of which are why I chose the Base 986 caliper to fit under my Dekagrams without spacers, since it’s made for a 24mm rotor from the start, and you won’t be overextending the pistons at lower pad thicknesses

As for the brackets, I made them myself. While I don’t have the time to make a bunch more, I do now have a full design and drawing that I could send out to have a batch made if there were enough interest. I’d have to price it out though, I probably would not be able to match the kind of prices I’m seeing online for similar adapters for other cars because I’m not buying in bulk, but I’m guessing it could be done for less than $400 a pair. Again, I’d have to actually send out for some quotes

 

[Grsemky]

Looks like the Renault calipers are the same 130mm bolt spacing, but it seems like they may protrude out further than the Boxster base calipers - it looks like the Renault used a 28mm rotor - it’s possibly a similar dimension to the Boxster “S” which also uses a thicker 28mm rotor and slightly thicker pad (and longer pistons), all of which are why I chose the Base 986 caliper to fit under my Dekagrams without spacers, since it’s made for a 24mm rotor from the start, and you won’t be overextending the pistons at lower pad thicknesses

As for the brackets, I made them myself. While I don’t have the time to make a bunch more, I do now have a full design and drawing that I could send out to have a batch made if there were enough interest. I’d have to price it out though, I probably would not be able to match the kind of prices I’m seeing online for similar adapters for other cars, but I’m guessing it could be done for less than $400 a pair. Again, I’d have to actually send out for some quotes

I might try rear calipers from an s as they use the 24mm rotor and currently are $250+ shipping for the pair

 

[Dialcaliper]

I might try rear calipers from an s as they use the 24mm rotor and currently are $250+ shipping for the pair

If you mean rear calipers from a Boxster S, the piston diameters are too small (28/30mm) which will kill your brake bias.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Finished my own custom front big brake kit using bolt-on 300mm SVT Focus rotors paired with 986 Boxster 4-pot calipers on a bracket I made. Tested them out at a trackday last week and they made a big difference over the fading stock brakes + pads. Paired up with SVT rear brackets and 280mm rotors

Wheels are 16x8 ET42 Dekagrams - they fit just right without spacers.

More detailed writeup about the process here if you’re curious how it was done:


https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/feisty-the-family-car.30825/page-10#post-522405

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What spacer should be used with stock wheels? That is what everyone wants to know!

 

[Dialcaliper]

What spacer should be used with stock wheels? That is what everyone wants to know!

Don’t have my stock wheels anymore to measure, but I can tell you that you need at least about 2.25” spoke clearance measured out from the rotor to clear the spokes, which is the clearance on the Dekagrams. The SVT rotors sit at the same outer depth as the stock ones

However, I feel like the ticket for the stock 17” wheels would probably be to pair some 324x28mm Mk1 Focus RS rotors from the UK (Pumaspeed or EBay) with some C4/Cobra reman PBR calipers (the 2x38mm piston version). They are 2-pot calipers that might possibly fit with no spacers at all.

If multiple people were interested and felt like discussing it, I wouldn’t be opposed to putting in some prototyping on my off time. I’m just not prepared to front the money for the rotors, calipers and pads that I wouldn’t be using. For perspective we’re talking ~$100 per caliper from Rockauto and ~$200 for a pair of rotors from Pumaspeed. Probably $500 at the end of the day including shipping. (About the same cost as the used Boxster calipers).

It would also require several months of patience while I work out the details on my scant free-time (I have a busy day job and a family). It would make it easier if it were someone Bay Area local that had stock wheels to fit check, and again, infinite patience.

The setup I just made on the other hand, which could fit a number of aftermarket 16” and maybe even a few 15” wheels I could probably have something in a couple months with at least a few people interested.

 

[isis]

Driver side blend door actuator was making noise at startup. Not the same clicking as when the passenger side one failed but a really fast nearly grinding noise. Went through all the pain of replacing it with a new motorcraft part. The new one does the same thing. You can feel it vibrating if you put your hand on it so I know it’s not a different one. I have full temperature and vent functions so I don’t know what’s going on. I also removed a wrong screw while changing it because you can’t see anything when your hand is in there and I have no clue where it goes. I’m a bit frustrated to say the least. That’s not a fun job.

 

[Ricky_Bobby_24]

Just finished doing a rust prevention and added some black underbody spray to help keep it down. Also got new wheel well liners since my old ones sagged and then ripped over time. I tried to make them a little more sturdier and possibly will also help with road noise (very minimal at best) by lining each one with a couple cans of rubber spray followed with a couple coats of truck bed liner to protect the rubber and make it more ridged. Overall I'm very satisfied with the outcome and wish I did something like this years ago to help protect the car from the elements. A couple years of winter in Colorado Springs did a lot more wear than I would have liked.
Not the best pic as a few touchup spots were still wet after using the last little bits in the can.

 

[dhminer]

Don’t have my stock wheels anymore to measure, but I can tell you that you need at least about 2.25” spoke clearance measured out from the rotor to clear the spokes, which is the clearance on the Dekagrams. The SVT rotors sit at the same outer depth as the stock ones

However, I feel like the ticket for the stock 17” wheels would probably be to pair some 324x28mm Mk1 Focus RS rotors from the UK (Pumaspeed or EBay) with some C4/Cobra reman PBR calipers (the 2x38mm piston version). They are 2-pot calipers that might possibly fit with no spacers at all.

If multiple people were interested and felt like discussing it, I wouldn’t be opposed to putting in some prototyping on my off time. I’m just not prepared to front the money for the rotors, calipers and pads that I wouldn’t be using. For perspective we’re talking ~$100 per caliper from Rockauto and ~$200 for a pair of rotors from Pumaspeed. Probably $500 at the end of the day including shipping. (About the same cost as the used Boxster calipers).

It would also require several months of patience while I work out the details on my scant free-time (I have a busy day job and a family). It would make it easier if it were someone Bay Area local that had stock wheels to fit check, and again, infinite patience.

The setup I just made on the other hand, which could fit a number of aftermarket 16” and maybe even a few 15” wheels I could probably have something in a couple months with at least a few people interested.

I’ll take a set if you’re making more!

 

[Grsemky]

I was installing an oil catch can and I bumped the turbo coolant line... It disintegrated😭 like I'm surprised it hasn't blown, it just fell about under my grip when trying to remove the barb from the tube! I know whoosh sells the entire tube and connection but does anybody have a part number for the coolant reservoir side connector? The hose is in great shape

 

[Zeille]

I was installing an oil catch can and I bumped the turbo coolant line... It disintegrated😭 like I'm surprised it hasn't blown, it just fell about under my grip when trying to remove the barb from the tube! I know whoosh sells the entire tube and connection but does anybody have a part number for the coolant reservoir side connector? The hose is in great shape

It's better to buy the entire line that includes the barb, I don't think they're sold separately. I actually JUST did the exact same thing as you recently. did PCV catch can, and I bumped the side connected to the coolant res, and it somehow broke the plastic barb inside, so it was slowly leaking for a while until I decided to replace the hose. Call Larry H Miller Ford and see if they have it in stock since I know you're more east valley

 

[Grsemky]

It's better to buy the entire line that includes the barb, I don't think they're sold separately. I actually JUST did the exact same thing as you recently. did PCV catch can, and I bumped the side connected to the coolant res, and it somehow broke the plastic barb inside, so it was slowly leaking for a while until I decided to replace the hose. Call Larry H Miller Ford and see if they have it in stock since I know you're more east valley

Good call, I didn't want to wait for shipping lol

 

[Zeille]

Good call, I didn't want to wait for shipping lol

Just got off the phone with LHM ford parts, they have one on hand for $61.80. Part number KM-5398

 

[Grsemky]

Just got off the phone with LHM ford parts, they have one on hand for $61.80. Part number KM-5398

You da man!

 

[Zeille]

You da man!

Just give them a call first

 

[rallytaff]

Had the weatherstipping on my rear doors fitted yesterday. Got charged their price that they pay at the body shop and only $60 for labour. Total cost was $219. They lasted well considering the car has never been garaged! I had tried gluing the thin piece that is nearest the door pillar but it wouldn't stick. Decided to go the whole hog and replace them both.

 

[Dialcaliper]

I’ll take a set if you’re making more!

I’d consider doing a run of the 986/SVT caliper brackets. If there’s enough interest (at least 5-10 sets) I’ll price it out. I’m guessing sub-$400 per set but I need to send out for some quotes (doesn’t make sense for me to make that many sets in my garage)

For context:

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-fiesta-st-today.1441/post-522511

Full write-up:
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/feisty-the-family-car.30825/post-522405

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I just wish someone would put in the time for Stock wheel BBKs for those of us who don't want spacers or New wheels!

 

[Erick_V]

Recommendations for headlight bulbs in stock housings? My passenger side bulb is on its way out, it halfway works and I can’t remember for the life of me what I bought during Covid times. I drive early mornings and in the evening a lot (7a-7p in the hospital) so I’m practically begging for a ticket when it eventually dies lol

 

[Dialcaliper]

I just wish someone would put in the time for Stock wheel BBKs for those of us who don't want spacers or New wheels!

In all seriousness, if someone wants to arrange to send me some of these:

Focus Mk1 RS Rotors 324x28mm ($240/pair including shipping if you select US location)

Other Pumaspeed options if you want fancier slotted rotors for whatever reason

Don't forget your SVT Focus rear caliper brackets while you're ordering

And at least one left or right of these PBR SVT Cobra calipers
Any early 94-98 Mustang cobra caliper would work as well, just needs the 38mm piston

94-98 SVT Cobra Caliper LF (about $100 ea)
94-98 SVT Cobra Caliper RF

Or Red painted Powerstop versions for slightly more ($135 ea)

Link to other Mustang calipers - needs to be the SVT 2-pot front, including bracket if you want Cobra logos or something


And a set of cheap ($14) brake pads to do mockup with:

SVT Cobra Brake Pads

And be really patient for a few months until my work settles down a bit, I could probably make that happen. It would end up about 8% more front biased than the stock setup, but not too far off, and I think with the lower profile of the PBR sliding aluminum 2-pot it has a very good chance of clearing the stock 17" wheels. (I'd just need to find someone local that still has a stock wheel/rim around that I could borrow to fit check)